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Grimper à Bořeň

470 voies
4 domaines
1–11 notes

Le Bořeň (539 m) est une colline de phonolite à environ 2 km au sud de Bílina, au bord nord-ouest des monts de Bohême centrale, au-dessus de la route de Most à Bílina. Vu du nord-ouest, il évoque un lion couché ; on le compare souvent à la Devils Tower du Wyoming et on le présente comme la plus grande structure phonolitique de ce type en Europe. La colline est une réserve naturelle nationale avec forêt d'éboulis, steppes rocheuses, affleurements et champs de blocs, traversée par un sentier pédagogique jusqu'au sommet et à son panorama.

Le Bořeň est l'une des montagnes d'escalade légendaires de Tchéquie – on grimpe sur des piliers et parois de phonolite, surtout en traditionnel. Les voies sont décrites dans un topo de Stanislav Emingr et Ladislav Vörös. S'agissant d'une réserve naturelle nationale, l'escalade suit les conditions de protection de la nature – vérifier les restrictions auprès de la fédération tchèque d'alpinisme. Le centre d'information de Bílina renseigne sur les environs.

Faisant partie de Bohême du Nord-Ouest, Bořeň possède 470 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 1 à 11. Explorez ses 4 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Route on sun, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Règles

Bořeň National Nature Reserve – climb only on permitted rocks and respect any seasonal closures. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

Les règles de la ČHS pour les sites rocheux tchèques et celles des commissions locales s'appliquent. Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé, ne pas modifier les prises.

5
Levá stěna nebes
Start in the right part of the Left Wall of Heavens (3m right of the Descent Rock Gully).… Rock Climbing
5
Bertholdův prst
Up the valley wall of the tower. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4-
Řehořova stěna
Through the corner right from the base of Řehoř's chimney onto the sloping slabs. Along… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Řehořova stěna
Middle of the wall along slabs to a large nest (bivouac site). From there, right to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Bertholdův prst
Via a prominent indentation into the "Crown Route" and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Bertholdův prst
Left or right into the middle of the plateau wall and up the wall around the rappel ring… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Bertholdův prst
Left edge below the summit wall. Here slightly left and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3+
Dvojštít (Maturita) a Školka
Right of the plateau wall (directly from the tourist path) up the wall over 4 rivets to… Rock Climbing
3
Astra (Oddychová skála)
From the rock block below the wall, via the crack that separates the pillars, to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
3
Astra (Oddychová skála)
By corner to the top (right of the previous route) and left for rappelling. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
3
Astra (Oddychová skála)
In the right part of the wall, right of the rock block, up the pillar over 2 bolt hooks… Rock Climbing
4
Astra (Oddychová skála)
From the rock block below the wall, up the pillar over 2 bolt hooks to the top of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
4-
Dvojštít (Maturita) a Školka
The wall consists of several downward-sloping small pillars. The ascent leads through the… Rock Climbing
5-
Astra (Oddychová skála)
Crack in the right part of the "trough" (over a jammed boulder) to the platform (bolt… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6
Astra (Oddychová skála)
The entry is the left smooth corner of the "trough" (bolt hook). Higher up then via a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4+
Astra (Oddychová skála)
In the right side wall of the recess is a slightly overhanging and widening crack. Follow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Astra (Oddychová skála)
Crack in the middle pillar to the "Old Route". Higher right into a wide crack and like … Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4+
Malé varhany
Middle of the middle pillar over a rivet to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4-
Malé varhany
By corner right of the flat boulder to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Malé varhany
The entry is completely to the right via a fine crack. Traverse to the pillar and up it… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Astra (Oddychová skála)
In the left part of the wall via a hand crack to the top. (bolt hook) Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
3
Astra (Oddychová skála)
From the corner diagonally down the steps along the edge and left through a short chimney… Rock Climbing
5
Astra (Oddychová skála)
From the grassy platform in the left part of the wall via a small corner, higher up the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
4+
Malé varhany
N from a flat boulder. Up a right-angled corner to the top. Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
2
Malé varhany
By crack in the left side wall of the Small Organ. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5+
Malé varhany
A bit left of 'Stolová' via a vertical crack (rivet), then slightly left, back into the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
7+
Velké varhany
Boulder leading up a short, vertical wall (2x rivet) on the slope behind the Great Organ. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Malé varhany
From the platform to the N (clock) to the edge and along it over 3 bolt hooks to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Velké varhany
To the right behind the previous pillar is a deep couloir. From there into the cave and… Rock Climbing
4
Velké varhany
The route leads to a separate turret in the (S) part of the Great Organ. Short wall (bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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