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Grimper à Bořeň

470 voies
4 domaines
1–11 notes

Le Bořeň (539 m) est une colline de phonolite à environ 2 km au sud de Bílina, au bord nord-ouest des monts de Bohême centrale, au-dessus de la route de Most à Bílina. Vu du nord-ouest, il évoque un lion couché ; on le compare souvent à la Devils Tower du Wyoming et on le présente comme la plus grande structure phonolitique de ce type en Europe. La colline est une réserve naturelle nationale avec forêt d'éboulis, steppes rocheuses, affleurements et champs de blocs, traversée par un sentier pédagogique jusqu'au sommet et à son panorama.

Le Bořeň est l'une des montagnes d'escalade légendaires de Tchéquie – on grimpe sur des piliers et parois de phonolite, surtout en traditionnel. Les voies sont décrites dans un topo de Stanislav Emingr et Ladislav Vörös. S'agissant d'une réserve naturelle nationale, l'escalade suit les conditions de protection de la nature – vérifier les restrictions auprès de la fédération tchèque d'alpinisme. Le centre d'information de Bílina renseigne sur les environs.

Faisant partie de Bohême du Nord-Ouest, Bořeň possède 470 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 1 à 11. Explorez ses 4 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Route on sun, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Règles

Bořeň National Nature Reserve – climb only on permitted rocks and respect any seasonal closures. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

Les règles de la ČHS pour les sites rocheux tchèques et celles des commissions locales s'appliquent. Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé, ne pas modifier les prises.

5
Střední jižní pilíř
Left (harder) or right to the prominent pulpit that is in the left part of the pillar.… Rock Climbing Route on sun
3
Levý jižní amfiteátr
To the right of the Minarets is another hollow with a prominent pillar in the upper part… Rock Climbing Route on sun
3
Levý jižní amfiteátr
Up the third crack. Rock Climbing Route on sun
3
Levý jižní amfiteátr
Up the fourth crack, to the right of the small cave. Rock Climbing Route on sun
3
Levý jižní amfiteátr
Up the second crack. Rock Climbing Route on sun
3
Levý jižní amfiteátr
In the left part of the amphitheater, there is a hollow with a small cave. Up the first… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Levý jižní pilíř
A prominent corner crack runs along the middle of the pillar, interrupted in the middle… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
3
Levý jižní pilíř
To the balcony the same as 'Páter noster' or up the corner on the right. From there… Rock Climbing Route on sun
7+
Levý jižní pilíř
Up the smooth slab via three bolts to the summit. Protection placed from above. Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Italská stěna
The route leads through the middle of the prominent pillar, which forms the right (side)… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
7+
Italská stěna
Between "Čičolína" and "Loris Manzana" through a small crack (2 bolts) to a ramp (to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6
Italská stěna
To the left of "Giardín", up the wall over two bolts to a ramp. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6+
Italská stěna
In the right lower part of the Italian Wall, over two bolts // - the first under a 'small… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4+
Italská stěna
From the ledge, from the belay bolt through the middle of the wall over 2 bolts to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6
Italská stěna
To the first bolt of "Čičolína" traverse from the left from the corner. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
7
Italská stěna
Completely to the left in the lower part of the wall, up a smooth slab directly (!) over… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6-
Pravá stěna nebes
Through the middle of the wall to the left behind the edge of the RIGHT SKY WALL. Over 2… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
3
Italská stěna
Through the middle of the laid block. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
5-
Pravá stěna nebes
The entry is 4m from the edge of the Sky Wall. Directly up the wall to a bolt, above the… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +3
5-
Pravá stěna nebes
Entry via the route 'The Rest Was Washed Away by Rain' to its first bolt. Then traverse… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5+
Pravá stěna nebes
Between Míra's and Láč's routes, go over 3 bolts to the ridge. Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +3
4
Pravá stěna nebes
The entry is where the 'Approach ramp to the routes 'Through the Middle of the Sky Wall'… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +3
5
Pravá stěna nebes
Entry from the pulpit below the wall. Higher up over the overhang using a crack (bolt).… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +3
4
Pravá stěna nebes
The entry is to the right of the 'Old Route' over an overhang. Continue straight up a… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +3
5+
Pravá stěna nebes
Between the Láč's and Jarda's routes, through a broken crack to the 1st bolt. Over the… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +3
4
Pravá stěna nebes
Entry from the pulpit below the wall. From there, go about 8m left below the overhangs… Rock Climbing Friends Route on sun +2
4-
Levá stěna nebes
Ascend to the prominent pulpit (above the summit of the Italian Wall), which is in the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
5
Levá stěna nebes
Without more detailed information. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5
Levá stěna nebes
Right of the UFO route, up a sloping wall to the 1st bolt. From there slightly left to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun +1
5+
Levá stěna nebes
Left of the start of "Old Lovers' Route", directly up the wall over 2 bolts to the belay… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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