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Sloper Hangs

00:00
READY
REP
1 /
SET
1 /
Category
finger strength
Intensity
Bodyweight or assisted, 10s hangs
Goal
Develop open-hand and wrist strength on sloping holds through friction-dependent hangs.
Equipment
Fingerboard with slopers (20-30 degrees) or ball holds

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Goal: Slopers reward wrist strength, body position and skin condition - train all three.

Protocol

  • Hang: 10 seconds
  • Reps: 1 per set
  • Sets: 6
  • Rest between sets: 2.5 minutes

Execution

  • Maximize skin contact, wrist slightly flexed, elbows soft.
  • Keep body dead still - any swing breaks friction.
  • Cool, dry skin helps a lot; brush the holds and chalk lightly.

Too hard? Remove weight with a pulley. Too easy? Add weight or use a steeper sloper. Wrist curls pair well with this protocol.