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Climbing at 07. U Zloděje a Atlantidy

189 routes
21 areas
2–9+ grades

U Zloděje a Atlantidy on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers almost 190 routes on 21 towers – the largest include Čertenice, Kriminál, Atlantida, Soudce, Alcatraz and Zloděj. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection on vertical walls; grades from 2 to 9+.

Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 07. U Zloděje a Atlantidy has 189 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9+. Explore its 21 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall.

Rules

First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84315, 14.21647

2+
Čertenice
From the South, between the small tower and the main tower, use the chimney, then higher… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Čertenice
On the right side of the East wall, over the prominent roof overhang and along the crack… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+/8-
Čertenice
On the right side of the South wall, follow the crack and then up the wall, passing 2… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
2
Čertenice
Left of the Old Route, by chimney and slightly right to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
3
Čertenice
Left of the Hugín route on the pre-rock, left with a step over the chimney to the pulpit.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Čertenice
From the right, follow the open crack to the Sulfur Odor route's ring bolt and then to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
2
Čertenice
From NW to the chimney between the Pillar of the Drawbridge and the tower. By chimney to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Čertenice
On the left side of the South wall, from the balcony, use the notch to the end (K).… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Čertenice
To the left of the entrance to Hell's Gate, use the corner to the pulpit and to the right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay

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