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Climbing at 07. U Zloděje a Atlantidy

189 routes
21 areas
2–9+ grades

U Zloděje a Atlantidy on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers almost 190 routes on 21 towers – the largest include Čertenice, Kriminál, Atlantida, Soudce, Alcatraz and Zloděj. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection on vertical walls; grades from 2 to 9+.

Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 07. U Zloděje a Atlantidy has 189 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9+. Explore its 21 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall.

Rules

First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84315, 14.21647

4+
Soudce
To the left of the "Third Guard" route, by the crack and wall to the anchor. BH. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Malý pitaval
By the wall at the right edge over 3 BH to the anchor. BH. On the right by the chimney is… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Malý pitaval
To the right of the A Little Excitement route, climb the wall past 3 bolts to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Soudce
To the right of the Self-arrest route, by the wall over 2 BH to the rappel anchor of the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Soudce
To the left of the "Public Works" route, a corner on the pillar and to the left over 2 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Malý pitaval
To the left of the Šperhák route, climb the wall past 3 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Malý pitaval
To the right of the Šperhák route, climb the wall past 3 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Malý pitaval
Near the left edge and higher, climb the wall past 3 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Malý pitaval
In the left part of the massif, from the terrace, use the thin crack, then higher, follow… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Kupka
In the west face, traverse to the edge and diagonally to the right to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Kobka
Chimney between the massif and the tower upwards and edge to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Kobka
From the shelf on the south side over the overhang to the edge. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Kobka
In the middle of the south wall by the corner, over the overhang and wall to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Kobka
Down the edge to 1st bolt and then wall (clock) and along the edge through 2nd bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Kobka
Down the NE wall through a bolt into a hole and then over the overhang (bolt) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Čertenice
Through the middle of the South wall, passing K to the short chimney, climb it and then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Čertenice
To the right of the Short Chimney, climb the West wall above the ledge. Squeeze between… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
2+
Čertenice
To the right of the Falling Bridge pillar, in the middle of the upper West wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Čertenice
From the North, to the ledge in the massif and jump to the Falling Bridge pillar. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
5
Čertenice
To the left of the Peklinda route, use the edge and rib to the ledge, and then the corner… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
2
Čertenice
To the left of the Lower Chimney, use the corner and the squeeze to Hell's Cellar. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
2
Čertenice
Use the chimney between the massif and the Falling Bridge pillar to the pillar, traverse… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
2+
Čertenice
From the massif, jump to the Falling Bridge pillar. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Čertenice
Far right on the valley side, use the overhanging corner to the balcony, then along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Čertenice
In the middle of the NE wall to the crack (bolt) and follow it diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Čertenice
From the bolt on the The Devil Never Sleeps route, climb the wall directly to the top of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+/8-
Čertenice
To the right of the Black Angels route, up the wall over the overhang (bolt) to the crack… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Čertenice
Climb the wall along the East edge of Strážení Tower, passing K to the top of the tower.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Čertenice
Along the South edge, passing K to the top of Strážení Tower. Freely to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3
Čertenice
To the right of the The Devil Never Sleeps route, use the corner, then the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay

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