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Climbing at 07. U Zloděje a Atlantidy

189 routes
21 areas
2–9+ grades

U Zloděje a Atlantidy on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers almost 190 routes on 21 towers – the largest include Čertenice, Kriminál, Atlantida, Soudce, Alcatraz and Zloděj. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection on vertical walls; grades from 2 to 9+.

Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 07. U Zloděje a Atlantidy has 189 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9+. Explore its 21 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall.

Rules

First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84315, 14.21647

8-/8
Tunel
To the right of the route "Dilatační spára", up the wall and edge (5 Bh) to the belay BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Bábovka
Up the wall and higher up the edge (3 BH) to the balcony to the belay BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Tunel
About 2 m to the right of the large block up the wall, then along the crack and higher up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Tunel
From the large block up the wall via 4 BH to hourglasses. Right into the gully (left 5th… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Tunel
Like "Dilatační spára", above the 1st BH diagonally to the left (2nd BH) into the shallow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Tunel
In the northern wall, up the groove and crack via 2 BH to the belay BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Tunel
To the left of the route "Dilatační spára" (Expansion Joint), up the wall along the edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Tunel
From the left to the large block (BH) in front of the cave on the SE side of the massif.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Tunel
3 m to the right of "Rosa na kolejích", up the wall along the crack (2 BH) to the ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Tunel
To the left of the large block on the SE side of the massif, up the wall along cracks… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Tunel
Through the center of the left wall via 4 BH to the belay BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Kriminál
Completely in the right part of the massif, up the crack in the N face 1st BH over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Tunel
Up the left part of the left face via 4 BHs to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Tunel
Between routes. Tunnelled holds and "Rosa na kolejích" (Rosa on Rails) up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5+
Kriminál
Up the N face, later the edge, 4 BHs to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Kriminál
Right of the start of the "Cucumber Season" route, up the face via a BH and then follow… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Kriminál
Right of the Visio in Extremis route, up the corner (2 BHs). Traverse right and up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Kriminál
Up the NE edge 2 BHs to the shallow corner 3rd BH, up the face over the small overhang… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Kriminál
Follow the "Cucumber Season" route to the 2nd BH and straight up the face (2 BHs) and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Kriminál
Right of the Third Correction, up the face via 3 BHs to the 3rd BH of the Crime Scene… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Kriminál
About 5m to the right of the "Third Correction" route, up the small corner and left along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Kriminál
Follow the 3rd Correction route above the 2nd BH and right up the face via 5 BHs to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Kriminál
In the lower face, up the overhanging crack (2 BHs) into the fissure, follow it (3rd BH)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Kriminál
Start from the rock left of the "Third Correction" route, traverse right to the 1st BH,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7-/7
Kriminál
Left of the "Family Gang" route, along the edge and up the face via 4 BHs to the lower… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Kriminál
Left of the Děčínská mafie (Decin Mafia) route, up the face via 4 BHs to the lower-off BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Kriminál
Above the 2nd BH of the "Third Correction" route, traverse left along the rounded ledge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Kriminál
In the left part of the massif, in the corner behind Zloděj (Thief), right to the edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Kriminál
Right of the Unresolved Case route, follow the cracks via 2 BHs to the balcony. Then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Kriminál
From the balcony above the 2nd BH of the Recidiva route, upwards and from the right along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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