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Climbing at 07. U Zloděje a Atlantidy

189 routes
21 areas
2–9+ grades

U Zloděje a Atlantidy on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers almost 190 routes on 21 towers – the largest include Čertenice, Kriminál, Atlantida, Soudce, Alcatraz and Zloděj. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection on vertical walls; grades from 2 to 9+.

Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 07. U Zloděje a Atlantidy has 189 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9+. Explore its 21 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall.

Rules

First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84315, 14.21647

5+
Kriminál
In the left part of the massif, left of the Recidiva route, stemming up via 3 BHs, then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Zloděj
Through the center of the S face via 2 BHs directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Zloděj
Through the center of the lower face via 2 crimps (K) to the lower terrace (belay BH) and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Zloděj
Up the left lower edge via 2 crimps (K) to the lower terrace (belay BH) and to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Zloděj
From the SW, up the chimney in the massif and through the squeeze to the terrace. Via the… Rock Climbing
6
Zloděj
From the 2nd K to the right to the edge and diagonally to the left to the BH and by the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Zloděj
By the Catch Him! route to the 1st K. Slightly from the left up the wall over 2 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Zloděj
Left of the lower edge, follow the ribs diagonally right to the edge and up the face to a… Rock Climbing
5
Zloděj
To the right of the lower V edge, traverse the wall and crack to the left into the corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Zloděj
From the beginning of the corner of the "Forest Arrogance" route, traverse the edge via 2… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Zloděj
To the left in the overhanging wall by a crack to the terrace and by the "Old Route" to… Rock Climbing
5
Zloděj
By the "Sacrilege" route to the horizontal notch and diagonally to the left by a corner … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7-/7
Zloděj
S edge over the 1st BH just above the 2nd BH. To the right through the middle of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Zloděj
Through the middle of the S wall to the 1st K. Diagonally to the right to the edge (2nd K… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Aréna odsouzenců
Through the middle of the wall (4 BH) over the overhang to the anchor. BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
2+
Zloděj
From S by the chimney between the tower and the massif to the terrace and the S edge to… Rock Climbing
5+
Aréna odsouzenců
In the left part of the wall along the edge and over the overhang (3 BH) to the anchor.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Aréna odsouzenců
In the right part by the wall, corner and to the right over the overhang (4 BH) to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9+
Soudce
To the right in the S wall and further along the edge over 4 BH to the anchor. BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Soudce
To the right of the "Electric Chair" route, by a blunt edge over 4 BH and over the 4th BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Soudce
Through the middle of the S wall, later to the left along the edge over 4 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Soudce
From the 3rd BH of the "Might Makes Right" route, straight through the gully over a BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Soudce
By the right part of the wall over 5 BH to the anchor. BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Soudce
To the left of the Paragraph route, by the right overhanging edge, later straight up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Soudce
In the middle of the wall, by a corner and wall over 3 BH to the anchor. BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Soudce
In the left part of the overhanging wall, by a rib and wall over 4 BH to the anchor. BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Soudce
In the middle of the overhanging wall (to the right of the Military Court route) over 2… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Soudce
In the S wall from the sloping ramp traverse to the right to the 1st BH and along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Soudce
Start with a crack to the left of the S edge (1st BH), to the right by the wall (2nd BH),… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Soudce
By crack and blunt edge over 4 BH to the anchor. BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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