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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Ondatra
From the SW end of the Giant Corridor by opposition to the plateau. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ondatra
By wall along the rounded south edge to the pillar, along the edge to the plateau. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Ondatra
Along the west edge to the pillar and along the edge to the plateau. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Permoník
Through the left part of the SE wall diagonally left to the edge, along it to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Ondatra
By chimney between Ondatra and Okenni to the balcony. By crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Ondatra
From the Giant Corridor by crack in the SE wall (1st ring) over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Permoník
In the left part of the NW wall by crack to the ring, by wall left beyond the edge and by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Nutrie
From the block on the SE side of the tower by step-over and right along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Permoník
In the NW wall traverse right to the 1st ring, higher up the wall left to the 2nd ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Nutrie
Right of the Valounboys route by chimney and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Mrázek
From the start of the Plateau Edge route, descend by chimney, right to the edge and along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Nutrie
Right valley wall (3 rings), by opposition to the 4th ring and by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Nutrie
By chimney between Nutrie and Ondatra to the ring. By small chimney and wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Nutrie
Along the left valley edge under the overhang, by crack to the end and by wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Mrázek
In the left part of the south wall by crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Mrázek
From the edge (2 rings + one hour) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Mrázek
By the wall along the plateau edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Mrázek
In the valley wall through cracks over 2 rings and along the edge of the chimney (not… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Morana
On the plateau side between Morana and Mrázek, through the chimney into a divergence,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Morana
From the SW, from the through chimney via a corner crack to a wedged block. By opposition… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Morana
From the Giant Hall, by crack and chimney to blocks. Through the chimney to pillars,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Morana
On the way, we will be afraid of the wedged block and traverse right along the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Morana
By overhang on the W side of the tower into a ledge, traverse left into the chimney, 4m… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Mons Olympus
From the plateau inter-tower, by chimney and wall to the ring. Traverse left along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Svobodník
From the plateau side, through the chimney to a block and along the edge to the ring. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Balú
At the right plateau edge, by wall and crack to the ledge. Left into the chimney of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Balú
From the gorge corner on the east side, by chimney to a block. By building to the balcony… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Balú
From the plateau side, by crack, chimney and wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Balú
SW chimney to the pillar. Right along the wall and gully to the balcony. Along the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Šerchán
From the east corner, by crack to the 1st ring. Right by crack to the 2nd ring. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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