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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Ďáblova kazatelna
By crack of the Second route under the overhang and traverse right along the wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ďáblova kazatelna
The start is below the right valley corner of the tower. By opposition to the edge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Ďáblova kazatelna
From the west, by small crack and wall to the 1st and 2nd ring. Along the wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Ďáblova kazatelna
Left of the start of the Way to the Sun, by chimney and crack into the window. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Béda
From the terrace, cross the chimney to the balcony, then go left and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ďáblova kazatelna
From the plateau gorge, by crack and chimney into the window. By gully to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Béda
The start is below the northern corner of the rock formation. By chimney and crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Béda
From S from the intermediate tower under the "Book" via the S chimney transitioning into… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Béda
Through a crack in the west face into a recess, an oblique crack to the ring, over an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Kejklíř
From the south, a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Kejklíř
Left of the east ridge by a squeeze, traverse the wall (ring) right to the crack and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kejklíř
From the E edge, traverse over 2 rings to the west edge. Right into the crack and higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Smaik
Via the "Bergbabys Club Route" to the 2nd ring and right along the edge over 2 rings to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kejklíř
From the plateau gorge, up the wall left behind the edge (ring) to the crack and up it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Smaik
From E through a crack and wall (ring) to the 2nd ring. Left to the 3rd ring and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Smaik
From the ring of the First Spring Falls route, up the crack to the 2nd ring and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Smaik
From the second ring of the Mock's Kiss route directly up the wall to the 3rd ring and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Smaik
Via the middle valley crack (2 rings) to the pillar. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Smaik
Via the left valley crack and chimney to the pillar. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6-
Smaik
Through the center of the valley face and a small chimney over the overhang to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Smaik
Via the right valley overhanging crack and chimney to the pillar. Right along the edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5+
Smaik
From the plateau side, traverse left along the ledge and up the wall to the 'hours'. Via… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
7-/7
Smaik
Step across to the small balcony below the W edge. Along the edge (3 rings) to the false… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Smaik
In the right part of the plateau face via the chimney to the pillar and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Páže
At the right plateau edge onto the ledge, left and then a steep section below the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Smaik
Left on the plateau side via the crack to the pillar and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Páže
From the base of the W face, up the wall over 'hours' and one ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Prostředník
Up the plateau face left to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Prostředník
On the SW side, up the wall (ring) left and along the west edge (2nd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Prostředník
In the fall line of the west ridge, up the crack directly to the 2nd ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3

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