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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Vrahovo hledí
To the left of the Old Route by plateau crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Stanislav Devátý
From NE by chimney to the ledge, in it traverse left and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Vrahovo hledí
Up the plateau wall to the right onto a small balcony and by wall directly or from the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Bojler pana Smaika
From the start of 'Rozvoraná cesta' (Split/Broken Route) up the wall diagonally left and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Bojler pana Smaika
From the balcony by crack in the left gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Bojler pana Smaika
From SW from the edge by jump/step-over to the balcony and by the right gully to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Bojler pana Smaika
From NE by wide crack to the pillar. Up the wall left behind the edge to the ring and by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Bojler pana Smaika
From the start of 'Rozvoraná cesta' (Split/Broken Route) up the wall directly to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Bojler pana Smaika
From the plateau side up the wall diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Melichar
Via the 'Adoration of the Kings' route to the ledge. Traverse right and along the recess… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Melichar
At the east edge on the right, wall into the crack, through it to the balcony and via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Baltazar
From the inter-towers (from Melichar) wall left to the east edge. Wall along the edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kašpar
In the middle of the NE wall via a thoroughly overgrown crack (more like a flowerbed) and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Melichar
NE wall to the ledge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Melichar
From the north by bridging/stemming to the ledge. Traverse left behind the edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Tmáček
NE chimney to the sub-summit and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Česílko
SW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Česílko
By the upland wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Kokos
Left of the E corner by wall to the 1st ring, higher along the edge over the 2nd ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Kokos
Right of the E edge (below the rappel) over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kokos
In the right part of the valley wall by corner crack and left by wide crack to the fore… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Kokos
From NW by crack to the 1st ring. Right into the gully and by wall (2nd ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Kokos
Valley chimney to the fore-rock, by step-over and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Žejdlík
Left of the north corner by wall, higher by crack (1st ring) and right by narrow gully… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Žejdlík
Valley crack (from Půllitr), higher by the 'Descent' route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Žejdlík
SE chimney and crack to the sub-summit. Wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Lisá eminence
From SW by wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Půllitr
From SW by chimney to the ring. Left by wall and higher along the edge by wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Půllitr
Valley crack to the window, by chimney and crack to the ledge, by standing to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Lisá eminence
By upland chimney and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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