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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Lisá eminence
From the tourist path (from NW) by crack to the 1st ring, left by step into the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Prdítko
In the south wall, left via receding narrow gullies/arêtes to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Prdítko
From the left over the flake to the NW edge and along it (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Prdítko
On the upland side by bridging/stemming to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Prdítko
Wall along the west edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Prdítko
Left of 'Scented' by wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Výčep
West wall along the slanted small cracks over 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7+/8-
Imbecilní věž
Left valley edge and wall 4 (5?) rings. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8-/8
Imbecilní věž
Right valley edge (4 rings). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Imbecilní věž
Narrow gully/arête crack (ring) left of the small valley. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Imbecilní věž
From the upland side by short wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Oměj
On the upland side by bridging/stemming to the gully, through it to the ledge with a pine… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Muchnička
Up the plateau wall to the pillar, stepping over the "Botaska Route" chimney, and to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Oměj
From the massif by step-over to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Oměj
SW wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Muchnička
Through the chimney on the plateau side of the tower. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Patriarcha
At the left valley edge, by crack to the end, right up the wall to the small pillar/niche… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Patriarcha
From the S, by crack to the 1st ring. Up the wall along the edge (4 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Šenkýřka
In the valley wall, by chimney and crack to the 1st ring. By small pillar/niche, higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Šenkýřka
In the middle of the NE wall, by crack to the ring. Traverse across the wall to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Sud
Up the SW wall, traverse left on the ledge and by crack to the 1st ring. Up the wall (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Sud
From the SE, stemming/bridging between Sud and Šenkýřka, higher up the wall to the ring … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Sud
From the NW, by crack to the ring, aid climbing from sit harness and by gully to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Sud
From the ring, a long traverse across the wall to the right, over the entire valley wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kozák dubový
Up the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Standokan
Up the plateau (SW) chimney to the pillar and up the wall left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kozák dubový
In the middle of the SW wall, by crack to the ring and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kozák dubový
Along the western edge, up the wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kozák dubový
Between Kozák dubový and Ptákojeb lesní, by chimney and left by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ptákojeb lesní
At the S end of the passage between the tower and Kozák dubový, stemming/bridging, higher… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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