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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Babuch
Via the Údolníkomín route to Brko to the saddle. Up the face (ring) and right along the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Pimpas
In the SE face, follow the cracks to the ring. Up the crack over the overhang, through… Rock Climbing
4-
Pimpas
From the NW, up the chimney to the false summit, then across the gully and left up the… Rock Climbing
4+
Lochneska
Between Loch Ness and Babuch, by stemming (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Brko
Up the valley crack (ring) to the saddle. Up the face to the right and along the north… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Pimpas
In the valley face, follow the crack in the corner to a ledge, then traverse right along… Rock Climbing
5+
Satan
In the middle of the SW face, follow the crack to the 1st ring. Traverse left across the… Rock Climbing
7
Satan
In the right part of the valley wall, follow the crack to the ledge and left via a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Satan
4m right of the "Veselá cesta" (Merry Way) along the edge (2R) and slightly left along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Čamrda
The ascent starts in the gorge near the south edge. Traverse left into the crack and… Rock Climbing
3
Diktát
Along the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Satan
Right of the eastern corner of the tower via a crack to the end, then traverse left along… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Diktát
Up the valley wall (3 rings) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Policajt
Up the wall along the western edge, past 3 rings, to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Zámělská
From the west in the middle of the wall on the slope, follow the small crack to the first… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Zámělská
From the E to the fore-rock, left over the hole to the 1st ring, up the vertical gully … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Zámělská
In the left part of the NE wall to the 1st ring. Via the overhanging crack (2nd ring) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Zámělská
From the plateau side (from S) via a slanting chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Zámělská
Through the right part of the NE wall via a crack (2 rings) and small pillars to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Moravská brána
Along the southern edge of the wall to the ring, further to the overgrown balcony, and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Moravská brána
Through the center of the SW wall along the small pillars (2 rings), from the 2nd Q … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Moravská brána
Through the chimney from the SW to the pillar. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Moravská brána
Right of the S edge via a crack and wall (ring) to the overgrown balcony and via the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Moravská brána
Through the chimney between the towers to the end, and then step over to the main tower.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kvakinger
Up the South face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kvakinger
Up the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kvakinger
Up the valley crack and then the right edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Mravenečník
From NW from the gorge via a crack to the balcony (birch). With substantial building into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kvakinger
Up the upland left edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kvakinger
Up the upland crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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