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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Dafné
From the plateau foreground to the left by step-over to the corner crack and then up it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Dafné
To the left from the valley side by stemming, crack (2 rings) and chimney to the pre… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Dafné
To the right on the plateau side by crack to a platform. By step-over and crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dafné
In the right part of the east face from the gorge to the left along a retreating crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Perla
Between Pearl and Giraffe via chimney and stemming to a small balcony (1st ring). From… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Žirafa
In the corner between Giraffe and Pearl by traverse to the valley side (also here by… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Žirafa
From the south, to the left along a crack (ring) into a hole and by West Route to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Žirafa
By Sunday Route to the 1st ring. To the right by crack (ring) to the pre-summit. By West… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Žirafa
From the west via a corner crack into a hole. Traverse to the south side and by crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Žirafa
To the left of C. Sunday hand crack to the upper part of "Nedělní" (Sunday). Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5+
Průčelník
In the plateau wall to the right over a ramp to the ring, from the right by wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Pinguin
From the plateau gorge into the chimney and up it to the pillar. By building/aid and wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Průčelník
To the right in the plateau wall, further right and along the edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Chocholouš
Via the corner to the southeast fore-summit. Via an overhang/rappel and artificial… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Achmeton
By wall along the south edge to the clock feature, traverse by wall left to the pre… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Chocholouš
From SW via a double crack into the window and by crawling through to the opposite side.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Achmeton
By crack and chimney to the pre-summit. By wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Mahárádža
From the fore-summit via an overhang/rappel to the ledge, traverse right along it, via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Anna
From the plateau pillar (from the west) to the right from the overhang/rappel with… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Věž tří přátel
From the gallery by artificial climbing and along the edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Věž tří přátel
From the plateau side via a stemming chimney to the gallery, along it to the right around… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mahárádža
In the left part of the plateau wall via a crack to the pillar. Up the wall to the right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Brabenec
From the west, a step-over and along the edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Psohlavec
From the valley side via a corner crack into the small cave. Via the crack into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Brabenec
From the plateau fore-rock with significant artificial climbing to the plateau. Along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Psohlavec
From the plateau side via a conical chimney to the pillar. Traversing along the ledge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Věž Eriky
From the fore-rock from NE via an overhang/rappel (artificial climbing) and up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Dudek
Via the left plateau crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Věž Eriky
To the left of Václavská Route (artificial climbing) up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dřevěné kladivo
On the plateau side by stemming/straddling to the 'hours' (hourglass/feature), left to… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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