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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Věž Eriky
From the southern edge, traverse left along the wall to the 'sokolík' and via it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Dudek
From NE along the overgrown wall to the ledge, via the diagonal chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Dudek
Via the right plateau crack to the plateau. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Krahujec
From SW purely by artificial climbing (or 'building up' technique) to the ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Krahujec
Along the left summit edge to the large 'hours' (hourglass/feature), by artificial… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Světec
From the ledge on the valley side via the wall along the north ridge (2 bolts) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Malý pytel mouky
From the upper side (from SW) descend via a crack, step over and bridge to the bolt. Aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Světec
From the block from the south with a step-over and a laid edge to the ring. Briefly right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Velký pytel mouky
From the valley via the green chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pekelný kotel
To the right on the south wall via a crack and a small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pekelný kotel
In the western corner via a chimney and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Velký pytel mouky
From the upper massif by stepping over, then via the wall to the left and up the chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mlýnské kolo
Via the NE chimney to the false summit. Aid climbing to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Neforemná
In the middle of the upper wall via a wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Mlýnské kolo
Climb through the chimney to the W ridge. Via a short wider crack to the false summit.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Neforemná
From the upper side traverse left to the NW ridge and over the grassy patches to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Mlýnské kolo
Via the SW crack to the false summit. Step over and right via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5
Judy
From the boulder near the SE wall, by standing on the pulpit. By standing left and up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ďáblův trůn
From the upper gorge, from the right corner, traverse right along the wall into a gully… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Judy
Via the chimney between Devil's Throne and Judy for about 10 m, then right via a crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Ďáblův trůn
Left on the SW wall via a system of cracks to the 1st bolt. Along the small crack to its… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Ďáblův trůn
From the NE via a chimney to the false summit and without aid climbing via the "Pekelná"… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Katrin
From the SW via a chimney to the saddle between Katrin and Smrtka. Then via the rib and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Katrin
Via the right valley crack to the saddle between Katrin and Smrtka. Then by the Lečo… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Nefertiti
Via the NW chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Tutanchámon
From the NW via the falcon crack left to the bolt. Step left into the next crack and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Bonifác
From the west via a chimney into a split. Aid climbing and from the right via the wall to… Rock Climbing
4+
Mlýnská myš
Via the SW wall (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Mlynářka
The ascent starts from the SW from the edge. By descending, from the overhang via aid… Rock Climbing
5
Smrtka
From the upper side via a chimney between Smrtka and the adjacent rock. Step left onto… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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