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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Mlýnská myš
Aid climbing and via the south ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Služka
From SE, from the upper gorge, build into a wide chimney and opposition to the ring. From… Rock Climbing
3
Mládek
Upper chimney to the pre-summit and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Barnabáš
From the upper side, build and along the edge to the plateau. Left by crack and chimney… Rock Climbing
4+
Mlýn
From the west, corner crack to the pre-summit. Via the Wavy Stone route to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Mlýn
The ascent starts below the center of the SE wall. Through the chimney, which changes… Rock Climbing
4+
Mlýn
Left on the SE side, opposition against a block and crack into the widening. Traverse… Rock Climbing
5+
Věž Helmuta Kohla
From the south (between Helmut Kohl Tower and Mill) crack, chimney and opposition to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Lýdie
In the valley wall, right upwards, build into the crack and follow it (ring) to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Karásek
NW crack (ring) to the cave, in the ledge right to the chimney, opposition and wall left… Rock Climbing
3
Krocánek
On the SW side from the boulder, traverse and wall left to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Ptáček
SW chimney and opposition to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Ptačí
SW chimney to the pillar and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Ptačí
From NW, narrow chimney, higher up gully to the pre-summit. Wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Horníček
From the blocks between Horníček and Ptačí věž (Bird Tower) up the wall and left through… Rock Climbing
4+
Ilse
Left in the gorge-chimney to the pillar. Traverse and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Prvnička
SE chimney in the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Larva
From the upper (plateau) side, by the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Prvnička
Via the SW chimney to a block. Then by the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Ušatec
From the SE, from the outer edge/overhang, by stepping over and then along the edge to… Rock Climbing
3
Ušatec
In a corner on the NW side of the tower, via a chimney to a block. Traverse in the… Rock Climbing
2+
Divná
At the right upper (plateau) corner, by the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Krajánek
To the left of the start of the Southwest Edge route, via a crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Krajánek
From the gorge (from Mlynář), via a chimney to a pine tree. Traverse in the chimney to… Rock Climbing
3
Mlynář
The ascent starts in the gorge below the left part of the NW face. Via a chimney… Rock Climbing
5
Katolík
From the south by stemming to the 1st and 2nd ring, which is placed in the wall of the… Rock Climbing
3
Katolík
From the NW, to the left via a narrow chimney to a pillar. Then by a crack to a plateau… Rock Climbing
5
Achilles
From the fore-rock (or lower part of the rock) to the right of the north edge, via a… Rock Climbing
3
Varhanní píšťala
Via the SW chimney and to the right by the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Varhanní píšťala
From Katolík by descending, then traversing and to the left via a crack to the edge. Then… Rock Climbing

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