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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7+/8-
Apollo
SW edge (3 rings) to Dýchánková c., then to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Apollo
From the SW, up the chimney for about ten meters, traverse the wall left and along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +1
6
Dvojhlavá
At the northern edge, up the wall, higher via a small crack to the balcony (via a ladder)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Dvojhlavá
On the ledge, traverse right and along the southern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Apollo
Up the upper chimney to the large balcony. Via a ladder and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dvojhlavá
From the ledge, diagonally left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Dvojhlavá
On the valley side of the tower, follow a system of chimneys to the highest block below… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Dvojhlavá
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dvojhlavá
Up the upper chimney to the block and right up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Dvojhlavá
From the upper gorge, up the chimney to the pillar. Traverse, up the wall along the edge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Dvojhlavá
From the NE, up the chimney and along the pillars left to the ring. Via a ladder from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Ikaros
Middle of the upper wall to the 1st ring, right up the wall and small gullies to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Ikaros
Up the wall to the right of the eastern edge and via a notch to a small balcony. Via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ikaros
Via Včelí cesta along the ramp to the valley side. Up the gully and wall to the gangway,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ikaros
From the upper side, along the ramp left, up the wall to the pine tree (via a ladder) and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Ikaros
In the left part of the upper wall via 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Ikaros
From the ramp of Včelí (Špinavá) route, up the wall to the ledge. Easy standing and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Brhlík
Up the gully on the SE side to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Brhlík
From the upper part, up the chimney and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Čertovy kameny
From the western fore-rock, up a short crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Brhlík
From the W fore-rock, step over and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Čertovy kameny
Along the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Čertovy kameny
Through the chimney from the East. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Bouřlivá
From the balcony via a crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Bouřlivá
Along the wall at the left valley edge to the holes and traverse right to the ledge. Left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bouřlivá
In the left part of the south face, via a crack and small columns to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Bradavice
To the right of the Pre-Sport route, along the wall to the sub-summit and via the Pre… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Bouřlivá
From the upper side to the left onto the ledge and along the wall to the balcony. Along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bouřlivá
In the upper wall via a crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Bradavice
In the right part of the NW face via a small column and wall to the 1st ring. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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