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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Třetí
From the south edge, along the wall to the left to the ring. Via a small column to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Třetí
To the right of the South edge via a small column to the 1st ring and along the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Třetí
Step over from Havran. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Havran
From the chimney between Havran and Třetí, overhanging into the wall. To the left along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Havran
From the summit of Třetí, descend along the wall into the chimney, by stepping over and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Havran
From the summit of Třetí by jumping to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Havran
From NE via the chimney between Havran and Třetí to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Havran
Via the 'After the Spree to Marína' route to the balcony in the chimney. To the right via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Havran
From the north corner along the wall along small cracks to the left onto a small platform… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Havran
Via the 'After the Spree to Marína' route to the balcony. Through the chimney and a small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Havran
Via the 'After the Spree' route for 5 m, traverse right to the 1st ring. Overhanging wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kovář
Through the upper crack and along the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Kovář
Through the left part of the valley wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kovář
Along the west ridge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Kovář
From the north (left from the valley side) along the slab to the right under the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kovář
Between Kovár and Marína, through the chimney and left up the wall to the west ridge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Marína
Via the 'Po flámu' route to the balcony. Traverse to the south ridge and along the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Marína
From the north, up the cracks to the ledge, then via a small chimney and wall to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Marína
Via the 'Western' route to Kovadlina to the ledge. In the left part of the wall, an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Marína
From the NE, through the chimney between Marína and Havran to the 1st and 2nd rings. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Marína
From the summit of Havran, traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Marína
From the chimney between Marína and Kovadlina, using opposition and up the wall (2 rings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Marína
From the start of the 'Po flámu' route, up the wall through the hole to the left and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Marína
From the SW, left via the crack to the block. Up the wall (ring) to the ring of the 'Po… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Marína
From the SW, via a double crack to the balcony in the chimney between Marína and Havran.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Marína
Through the chimney between Marína and Kovadlina, then a double crack and a crack over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kovadlina
To the right of the start of "Western" up the wall to the balcony and right (crosses … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Inženýr – Kominík
The start is at the left upper edge. Left up the wall (1st ring) to the ledge. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Kovadlina
Through the valley chimney to the ledge and via the 'Western' route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Kovadlina
Up the valley wall over 3 rings, at the 3rd ring's ledge traverse right into the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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