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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Lupič
From the NE, with significant aid (building holds/aids) into an overhanging crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Lupič
From the NW, via the chimney to the ring (using aid from a sling seat) and up the crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Piskoř
3m left of the 'Mysterious Traverses' route, up the overhanging small overhang/climbing… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Piskoř
Along the West Ridge over 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Lupič
From the SE, via the chimney to a block below the SE face. Climb into the SE chimney and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Lupič
Via the crack in the SW face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8/8+
Lupič
From the ring of the 'Stolen Crack' route, traverse left to the falcon's nest (2nd ring),… Rock Climbing
3
Hora mechu
Up the upper (western) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Piskoř
From the fore-rock on the NE side of the tower along the small crack to the 'finger'.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Páv
To the right in the NE wall, up the crack to the ledge and along the left edge (ring) (n.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Hora mechu
From the west, through the corner to the fore-rock. Up the wall to the balcony and along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Páv
From the W, up the crack in the edge to the fore-summit and up the center of the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6+/7-
Páv
From the NE, up the left crack to the fore-summit, traverse right and up the wall past… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Páv
From the gorge below the NE wall of the tower, up the chimney under the ceiling. Through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Páv
In the left part of the NE wall to the 1st ring. Higher up through a small crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Páv
From the SE to the highest ledge with a pine tree and by building (n. v.). Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Páv
From the start of the 'Maidens' Path' route (its 1st ring is on the left), up the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Ládík
Via the 'Drowned Crack' route to the bridge, then left along it to the crack and through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Ládík
In the right part of the NE wall, up the chimney to the pillar and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ládík
Left of the 'Chimney' route, through a crack over the bridge to the pillar. Via the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ježci
From the NE, up the right crack to the ledge (pine tree), up the chimney to the pillar… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ježci
From the NE, through the passage into the chimney and up it to the pillar. Overhang and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Ježci
From the highest point of the terrain below the NE wall, through a corner to the saddle.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ježci
Up the SW wall to about half the height of the tower, traverse left across the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Ježci
Up the SW crack, through the small wood and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Finský domek
In the valley (NE) wall, through a crack and a fissure to the ring. Up the wall and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Koloťuk
From the gorge to Kazišuk, through a crack to the pillar. By building (n. v.). Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Koloťuk
To the left in the W wall through cracks to the ring and as a brake test (n. v. implies … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Koloťuk
From the valley side, by building and cracks to the ring. Right along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
6
Kazišuk
Via the plateau (SW) crack to the ledge, traverse right in it and along the east edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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