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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Trautenberk
In the gorge on the SW side of the tower, by crack and chimney to the pillar. By crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Trautenberk
By NE crack to the 1st ring. By wall along the fissure in the corner, by small pillar … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Ostrovní věžička
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Ostrovní věžička
From the SE, via the crack to the ring and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Ostrovní věžička
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Spasská věž
By stemming between the fore-rock and the tower to the ring, via the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Spasská věž
The ascent starts from the block on the plateau (NW) side of the tower. By building up,… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6-
Oscilant
In the plateau gorge, up the chimney to the pillar. Up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Sicílie
On the plateau side, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Saská placka
Near the northern edge, up the wall to the ledge, right via the corner crack to the pre… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Saská placka
In the left part of the NE wall, by building up and via the sloping crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Saská placka
On the valley side from the passage, up the chimney and diagonally left via the crack to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Saská placka
Right of the "Eastern Crack" route, via a crack, a crack, a gully and the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Saská placka
In the middle of the plateau wall from the passage, up the chimney, diagonally right via… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
6-
Saská placka
Up the chimney of the "Rainy Picnic" route and right via the crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Klusáček
From the valley side, via the crack or from the right via the wall to the flake (ring).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Klusáček
From the NE, up the chimney to the pillar (supplied ring) and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Saská placka
of the terrain near the eastern edge, up the sloping gully to the ledge and to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Klusáček
Right of the 'Náhorní hrana' (Plateau Edge) route, through cracks and a crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pusinka
Right of the Kocovina route, up the crack to the pre-summit. Via the Kocovina route to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Klusáček
From the highest point of the terrain, up the wall along the eastern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Chobot
From the 1st ring of the "Experience Generator" route, left into the crack, through which… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Chobot
From the passage by the Caretaker in the left part of the wall, by stemming (or… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Pusinka
Up the plateau wall to the pre-summit and right along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Chobot
Up the valley crack to the ring. Build up from the seat and left along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Chobot
From the highest point of the terrain along the eastern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Morgan
From the plateau side, via the chimney to the pillar. Up the wall, higher along the edge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Domovník
Up the plateau chimney to the pillar. Traverse to the 1st ring and left via the pinnacle … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Morgan
Above the 2nd ring, directly along the right edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Morgan
Via the route "Miracle of Nature" to the ledge above the 1st Ring. Traverse left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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