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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8/8+
Morgan
From the valley side, via a crack to the ramp to the 1st ring. Through the corner, right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Morgan
From the NE, straddling (2 rings), traverse right along the wall over the edge into the… Rock Climbing
6-
Všední
From the valley side (from Boxer) via a crack to jammed blocks, then via a narrow chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
2
Všední
The start is the same as the Inner Route to Boxer. Through the chimney almost to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ostrovní
From the block on the NE side of the tower, with a step and crack to the pillar. Via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ostrovní
From the saddle between Ostrovní and Korál, in the left part of the wall, follow the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Ostrovní
In the left part of the NE wall of the pillar, via a crack and groove (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ostrovní
From the saddle between Ostrovní and Korál, descend three meters through the chimney.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ostrovní
On the NE side of the tower, descend right between the pillar and the block to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Boxer
From the NE, from the highest point of the terrain, through the chimney to the pre-summit… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
Přeskok
Ostrovní
Straddling the Built Route all the way to the pillar. With a jump and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ostrovní
On the plateau side, straddle the pillar, from the straddle build up and via the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Ostrovní
From the plateau (eastern) corner, crawl through the chimney between Ostrovní Tower and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Blíženci - Zlý
Left of the northern corner by a shallow slanted crack to the 1st ring. By crack to the… Rock Climbing
5
Kuba
By NE face and left along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Blíženci - Zlý
By opposition chimney between the twin towers to the lower summit. By crossing over and… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
7-/7
Blíženci - Zlý
From S from the opposition by stepping into the wall, through it to the 1st and 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Šejdíř
From the exit of the gorge by crack several meters up and by pyrite wall (2 rings),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Šejdíř
From NW into a blind gorge. By chimney for about eight meters and by chimney in the NE… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6-
Šejdíř
At the eastern edge by crack to the small pillar, by wall left behind the edge, by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Kolozub
From the cave on the valley side of the tower by the right crack (ring), higher up by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kolozub
From Šejdíř descend by chimney and step over to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kolozub
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kolozub
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kolozub
About 5m right of the route „Nasral Franta na Trabanta“ by crack to the flake (1st ring),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Carabus
By crack in the right valley (northern) edge to the 1st ring. Traverse left by wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Carabus
From the start of the Pětka route, traverse left on a ledge, then by a wide crack and… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5
Carabus
From NW by chimney between Carab and Šejdíř to the crack and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Carabus
In the left part of the NW face of Šejdíř by chimney to its NE pillar. By crossing over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Carabus
From NE by crack to the balcony and by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2

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