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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Věž u Lucia
From the overgrown balcony below the narrow SW wall, by a crack, higher up the wall (ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Věž u Lucia
5m right of the start of the "Prostatic Electricity" route, by fissures and the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Věž u Lucia
From the fore-peak in the gully between towers, via a crack in the SE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5+
Pekelná brána
Up the valley wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Věž u Lucia
Via the "Prostatic Electricity" route briefly upwards and to the right up the wall (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Julián
To the left of the Hradecká route, through the chimney between Julián and the pillar,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Julián
From Ještěrčí Square, through the chimney between the pillar and the tower to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Julián
By opposition and crack, higher up by a small dihedral directly to the balcony with a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Julián
Start in the corner of the pillar in the southeast, in the area between Pašerák and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Pekelná brána
From the SE by a short chimney to the summit (n. v. - na vrchol). Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zefír
Descent from Ještěrka to a small pillar and traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Zefír
From the plateau side via a corner, higher up the face to the left (2 Q) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Zefír
From the gorge from NW (from Pusina) via a corner crack, higher up via a chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zefír
Via the 'Přes odštěp' (Across the Detachment) route to Ještěrka up to the detached block … Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Zefír
Via the 'Severozápadní spára' (Northwest Crack) route for about four meters and traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pusina
From Pálavská via the valley chimney and crack to the balcony to the 1st ring. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pusina
Right of the 'Večerní polibek' (Evening Kiss) route via the face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pusina
From the plateau side via the SE face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Pálavská
Between Pálavská and Walter Bonatti Tower, a ten-meter chimney, stepping into the crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Věž Waltera Bonattiho
From SW from the gorge via a chimney, higher up a crack to the pillar. Along it and along… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Věž Waltera Bonattiho
From the summit of Útes (Cliff) by stepping over to an overhanging ledge. Via the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Věž Waltera Bonattiho
From NE via a crack up to the widening, an overhanging crack-corner (ring) to the terrace… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Věž Waltera Bonattiho
From the plateau side from a small pillar via overhanging cracks (2 rings), left via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Pálavská
From the overgrown fore-rock on the NW side of the tower, via a crack into the inner… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pálavská
From the saddle between Pálavská and Pusina, up the chimney to the pillar. Via the 'Above… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Blátoš
From the block on the right plateau edge, up the wall right (ring), via the falcon crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Blátoš
From the plateau side, with substantial aid climbing and via the crack to the plateau.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Blátoš
From SW via the overhanging corner and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Bazilišek
In the left part of the SW wall, via the crack in the corner to the pillar and up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Bazilišek
From Ostrovní Path, via the crack in the north corner of the tower to the ledge, via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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