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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Bazilišek
From Pekelník, from the block, up the wall right to the east edge and along it (ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Bazilišek
From the plateau side (from SW) at the pillar via a slanted crack, chimney and wall over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Bazilišek
From NW via the corner to the 1st ring. Traverse the wall left (2nd ring) to the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Džunka
From the plateau side, up the steps, over the overhang and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Fregata
From SE via a system of chimneys and over pillars to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Džunka
By building/aid climbing to the crack in the north edge, follow it to its end, step left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Džunka
From the valley side, from the inner chapel between the Junk and the Frigate, up the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Fregata
Up the chimney of the 'Foot Fault' route to the collapsed pillar, then a wide crack and… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6+/7-
Fregata
Up the chimney under the collapsed pillar (from Robinson) to the balcony, up the wall… Rock Climbing
5+
Fregata
To the left of the start of the "Last Voyage" route from the inner chapel between the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Fregata
In the left part of the valley (NW) wall, up the chimney to the cornice. Traverse the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Fregata
From the valley side, up the chimney between the Frigate and the Junk (2 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Huňáč
From NE (from Metuje) via the falcon crack to the 1st ring. Up the wall to the pillar and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Mecheché
The access is below the NE wall behind the overgrown blocks. Up the yellow wall, above it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kuba II
Up the chimney between the tower and the Black Abbot. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mecheché
Up the plateau chimney (from the Tramp) to the ledge. By building (up/aid) along the edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Mecheché
To the right of the Solivé Route, up a crack to the 1st ring, (building (up/aid) from a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Ibiza
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ibiza
Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Černý opat
From Daemon, up the chimney along the crack, higher up through a narrow side chimney to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ibiza
Up the crack from the SW, higher up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Černý opat
From the Daemon side, up the chimney to the ring, by opposition to the ledge and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Černý opat
From the inner space on the NE side of the tower, up a crack to the balcony, right up a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Démon
From the NW, up a crack to the pillar. Left up the wall to the 1st ring and directly up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Démon
In the left part of the NE wall, up the chimney to the pillars. Up the wall and left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Démon
Along the edge to the NE pillar. A traverse right into a crack, along it and right up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Démon
From the inner space up the chimney, by opposition, a "living bridge" and right up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Démon
In the right part of the NE wall, up the chimney to the pillar, then a small rock outcrop… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Skočná
From the SW, up the chimney to the southern pillar, a jump to the small platform of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Skočná
Up the crack in the NE wall over the overhang to the pre-summit. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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