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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Alka
From Metuje, via a chimney and crack (ring) to the terrace. Via a chimney and crack (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Pablízek
Through the valley crack and by a chimney to the pre-summit. By a wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pablízek
From S, with strenuous climbing and then a crack to the pre-summit. Via the route … Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Anna van Deak
From the highest point of the terrain, via an overhanging crack to a small platform and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5+
Matračka
To the right of the northern edge, by a crack and a gully to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
3
Matračka
From the SW, by a short crack to the right to a small balcony and by a wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Ostrov bláznů
From the SW end of the passage, right over a vertical wall by opposition to the pillar.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ostrov bláznů
To the left of the SW passage (by building) by a crack to the balcony and by Protlačená… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5+
Lingam
From the fore-rock on the NW side, by building and a wall diagonally right to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
7-/7
Ostrov bláznů
From the east, along the corner and by a wall to the right to the ring. To the right by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Ostrov bláznů
At the eastern corner, by a crack and a fissure to the ring. By a wall to the SE pillar,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Ostrov bláznů
Between Ostrov bláznů (Island of Fools) and Ostrovní hora (Island Mountain), by stemming… Rock Climbing
4+
Ostrov bláznů
The entry is to the left of the walk-through chimney. From the block, by an overhang and… Rock Climbing
4-
Ostrov bláznů
From the passage, by stemming to the SE pillar and by Kelímek's route to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Ostrov bláznů
Through the middle NW crack to the pillar and to the left by a wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Ostrov bláznů
Through the left NW crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Ostrov bláznů
Through the right valley crack, by a chimney to the pre-summit, by an overhang and a wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Ostrov bláznů
From the SW through a passage into the inner space and by a chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ostrovní hora
In the right part of the valley (NW) wall, by a crack to the pillar. To the left by a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ostrovní hora
Through the chimney in the NE wall to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Racek
From the NE gorge through a chimney and to the left by a crack to a small balcony in the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Ostrovní hora
From the highest point of the terrain on the plateau side of the tower, by a crack and a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Neptun
From the footbridge, a gully about four meters. By building, right a gully, a crack and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Podhříbek
By the plateau wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Společná
To the left of the valley (northern) edge through a narrow chimney to the plateau (circle… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Neptun
From the gorge under the NW face of the tower via small chimney/groove (sokolík) (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kormorán
Between Cormorant and Gnome (from the tourist path from NE) via chimney to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kormorán
In the middle of the NE wall via crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Albatros
At the northern edge via crack to the flake and extensive aid climbing to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Albatros
In the corner on the NW side of the tower, traverse via chimney to the opposite side.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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