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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Albatros
Right of the west edge via chimney to the balcony of the edge/lip. Via step-over and wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Albatros
Via opposition (stemming) against the Sea Horse to the 1st ring. Via wall (2nd ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Albatros
Right of the southern corner (from the tourist path) via crack to the balcony. Along it… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Albatros
Rock Climbing
6-
Atol Mururoa
In the right part of the NE wall via a widening corner crack (ring) to the pillar. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Albatros
Right in front of the Gothic Gate (from the southern corner) via chimney to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Atol Mururoa
Via crack in the northern edge to the 1st ring. Along the edge to the 2nd ring and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Mořský koník
Between Sea Horse and Albatross via chimney into opposition (stemming), aid climbing and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mořský koník
From the plateau gorge via opposition (stemming) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Slepičí král
From the inner space (direction from Rukavice) by a chimney and small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4
Slepičí král
From the plateau side, by a stemming/bridging chimney to the pillar. Over another pillar… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
8/8+
Slepičí král
By the valley wall (4 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Blekota
From the plateau side, right to the ring and by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7+/8-
Slepičí král
By the wall (ring) and small cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Rumburak
By the corner crack and left by the wall to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Blekota
From the plateau side, by stemming/bridging to the block. By stepping over/traverse and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6+/7-
Blekota
From the valley side, by the crack and left by the wall to the 1st ring. By the wall left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Rumburak
Through the middle of the SE wall to the ring. Traverse by the wall to the left and by a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Sklípkan s knírem
By the right NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Rumburak
In the right part of the SE wall, by a chimney to the pre-summit. By an overhang and wall… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4
Rumburak
From the NE, by a narrow gully/small chimney to the pre-summit and by the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Rumburak
Rock Climbing
4
Čípek
By the NE crack to a small pillar and by the wall over an overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Sklípkan s knírem
By the SE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Huňka
From the plateau side, traverse left to a small pillar and by the wall along a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Sklípkan s knírem
By the left NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
10
Huňka
By the North wall using edges over a ring directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Vodmašťovna
From Mecheché descend south, under the pine tree continuously down through the chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Dešťová víla
Directly from the tourist path by the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Vodmašťovna
Through the chimney between the tower and Mecheché, higher up by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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