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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Kadet Biegler
From the W edge right to the S edge and via it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kadet Biegler
Center of the uphill wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Rytíř Žumbera
From the block on the uphill side by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
6
Rytíř Žumbera
SW crack to the end, by wall left to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Pidikřístek
From the valley side by a short crack and wall to the right to the ring. By wall into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Rytíř Žumbera
Left of the N edge by wall (ring) to the shelf, route 'Tournament' to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Pidikřístek
From 'Sleeping Uncle' by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4
Pidikřístek
Left of the west edge by wall, left by small pillar/arete and crack to the balcony. By… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pidikřístek
SW wall diagonally right and by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Spací strýc
In the valley wall from the right to the south edge and along it (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Spací strýc
From the uphill side by wall, or right by stemming/chimney between 'Sleeping Uncle' and … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Zářijová
The start is on the valley (NE) side of the tower. Traverse right along the ledge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Včelař
Along the plateau face to the left (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Zářijová
To the left of the Descent Route, from the block traverse along the face to the left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Včelař
On the uphill side from the block by extensive technical climbing to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Zářijová
To the right on the plateau side of the tower, traverse through the chimney to the valley… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Úl
Via the plateau chimney to the ledge and to the right along the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Zářijová
To the left on the plateau side of the tower, via a chimney to the fore-summit and along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kabelka
Along the NE edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Violeta
Via the plateau chimney (between Violeta and Úl) to the gully and through it to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Trioleta
To the right on the SW side of the tower, via a chimney (between Trioleta and Violeta) to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Trioleta
From the south, via a chimney to the block below the SE face of the tower. Along the face… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Violeta
From the SW, via a chimney to the block, by aid climbing or left via a crack and system… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Rasputin
Via the valley (NW) corner crack and chimney to the ledge into the gap between towers.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kleofáš
From the valley side, via falcon cracks and along the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
4
Tampon
Via a crack in the valley (NW) face to the pillar and via a chimney to another pillar.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Tampon
From the plateau, via the chimney between Tampon and Silveta for 5m, then a crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Amazonka
Via the Wild Women's route to the pillar, over the holes to the ledge and from the right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Bruno
From the NW, via the falcon crack to the pillar of the old route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Bruno
From the SE, via a crack and chimney to the pillar. With extensive build-up (aid climbing… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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