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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Jelen
In the left part of the valley wall, a crack to the crossing of the Chimney route. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
8+/9-
Cvrk
Along the western edge over 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Jelen
From the southern fore-summit by stepping over to the ledge, along it traversing left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Zuzinka
Along the southern edge to the ledge, up the wall over the ear (pyrite), ring. Then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Prďola
Along the northern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Prďola
1 ring Rock Climbing
10
Jelen
Up the eastern wall from the indentation to the left edge and along it over pitons (hours… Rock Climbing
6-
Kačerovo hnízdo
On the right, on the NW side of the tower, by a broken crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Prďola
From the uphill side (NW) by chimney to the pillar and on to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kajmánek
Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kačerovo hnízdo
To the left on the NW side of the tower, from the block by climbing/building and up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Novoměstská
In the left part of the SW face via the chimney, higher up traverse left in the ledge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Novoměstská
From the E, up the wall and via the left gully to the ring. Up the slabby wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Novoměstská
Via a crack in the SW corner to the pillar and up the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Novoměstská
From Malostranské towers (from SE) via chimneys, to the right via a gully and up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Předměstská
From the ledge, up the wall along the western edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Předměstská
From the SE, briefly up the chimney to the ring, to the left up the wall and via a gully … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Předměstská
To the right on the SW side of the tower, via the chimney to the block. By stepping over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Předměstská
In the left part of the NW face, via the chimney to the pre-summit and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Předměstská
In the left part of the SW face, along the ledge and via the chimney to the block. By… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Špejchar
On the valley (NW) side of the tower, from the block via a crack (1st ring), to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Špejchar
Via the plateau chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Špejchar
From the blocks from the SW, up the slabby wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Špejchar
From the southern edge, through the passage in the chimney to the eastern edge and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Geniální Horác
From the chimney via the right valley edge (hourglass and 5 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Enšpígl
Via the Shadow Route for three meters, up the wall to the right beyond the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Geniální Horác
From the valley side, via an opposition move (or wide crack) and up the wall to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Číman
From the valley via falcon cracks and to the right up the wall to the ring. Up the slabby… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Enšpígl
From the gorge below Mustafa, up the chimney to the wide crack, via the overhang and wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Číman
Via the plateau (northern) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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