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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Blbinec
By the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kravinec
From W from the valley by a double crack in the corner, higher by a wide crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Blbinec
In the valley wall by a crack in the pillar to a large wedged boulder. By crack over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Blbinec
Rock Climbing
4
Kravinec
From the valley (SE) side by crack and chimney into the gap between towers. Right by… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Lojzinec
By the upper (SW) crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Lojzinec
By the valley (NE) crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Slepice
Through the crack (ring) to the small balcony, further along the edge (3 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Slepice
From the valley (NE) side, by crack into the cave and by crack over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Slepice
Route from the saddle to Kohouta to the plateau. From the left along the stepped edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Opatovická
On the SW side of the tower (from the outer parts) through the chimney to the first… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Mojžíš
Along the northern edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Opatovická
To the right of the NW edge through the opposing chimney (2 rings) and crack to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Opatovická
Through the valley chimney to the ledge, from there right (ring) through the little… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Svatý Václav
In the right part of the valley (NE) wall, through a system of cracks to the flake. Using… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Svatý Václav
From SW through the chimney to the fore-summit, short descent, overhang (from opposition… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kuli
Short uphill edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mata horn
From the valley (NE) side through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Mata horn
Up the uphill chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mata horn
Along the right uphill (western) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Kuli
Up the wall and crack from SE n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Péro
From the uphill side, down 10m through the chimney and to the right. Up the chimney to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Péro
Up the uphill wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Péro
Up the right part of the uphill wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Goliáš
From the summit of the tower "Feather", descend the wall into the chimney, traverse to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Goliáš
Right of the W edge, via cracks left (1st ring) left onto the western edge via a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Goliáš
From the plateau gorge, descend ten meters via a chimney. Traverse to the ledge and left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Goliáš
From the NE (with extensive aid) up the chimney over the overhang into a crack (added 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Goliáš
Up the chimney left of the Blue Crack to the pillar, right via a crack (1st ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Goliáš
From the center of the plateau gorge, via a chimney and crack directly into the wide… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route

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