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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Dalibor
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Štěpánská koruna
Via the Skalní pych route to the block. Traverse and ascend the face to the right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Štěpánská koruna
At the southern corner, ascend the chimney to a block. Along the face following the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Štěpánská koruna
Opposite the Old Route, from the SE face to the pillar. Through the chimney and up the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Štěpánská koruna
To the right of the chimney of the Cat's Ballet route by the wall, a small crack and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Štěpánská koruna
In the left part of the SE face from the terrace, ascend the face to the pillar, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Štěpánská koruna
In the middle of the SE face, ascend a chimney to a block and a crack to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Štěpánská koruna
From the 4th ring by the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Štěpánská koruna
In the right part of the SE wall by a chimney, a crack to the ring, (with aid from a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Štěpánská koruna
By the East Crack route to the large hourglass and traverse by the wall right to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Štěpánská koruna
To the right of the start of the Lower Variant of the Valley Edge by cracks into the cave… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Štěpánská koruna
From the edge of the Terrace by the wall left to the balcony. Descend by a crack about… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Štěpánská koruna
To the left of the north edge by a crack to a small platform and by the wall left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Právo
At the left upper corner with aid and a small crack left to the balcony. Left by the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Právo
From the block on the NE side of the tower by the wall (1st ring) and a crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Právo
From the NW from the fore-summit by a chimney and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Právo
From the valley side to the left of the chimney by a narrow chimney, the wall, the edge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Nevěstinec
Via Soho to the balcony below the NW wall. In the right part of the wall by a crack, a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kelpie
From the terrace SE by chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Nevěstinec
The start is right of the east edge of the tower. By crack to the pillar and along it by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Nevěstinec
Left in the upper wall to an overgrown ledge, along it left and by edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kelpie
From the south by chimney to the wedged block to the ring. Around the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kapusta
From NW by slab to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Káňátko
In the SW wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Káňátko
Left of the N edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Káňátko
From NE from the block by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hanbinec
By the upper chimney and crawl through the rock window to the saddle. By wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Štěbenec
From the south by chimney and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Štěbenec
From the block on the NE side by wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hanbinec
In the middle of the valley (NE) wall by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route

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