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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Eden
Rock Climbing
4
Bedýnka
Via the plateau crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Bedýnka
In the valley wall, by bridging, through a fissure (ring) and a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Kamarádská
Left of the western corner, by bridging on the block and via a small ridge to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Kamarádská
From the 3rd ring, via the wall and a gully (ring) to the pre-summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Kamarádská
Right of the 'Komín' (Chimney) route, via the wall and a small ridge to the 1st ring. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kamarádská
From the SW, via a wide crack and chimney to the pre-summit. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
8/8+
Kamarádská
From the block, up the wall along the rounded southern edge (2 rings) to the 3rd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Kvakoň
By NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Kvakoň
At the western edge, up the wall along a shallow gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kvakoň
Rock Climbing
5+
Velryba
On the plateau side between the pillars and the President's Advisor via a chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Velryba
Approach along the right valley edge, diagonally up the wall (4 rings) below the crack of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Velryba
From the gorge on the plateau (SW) side via a chimney between the Whale and the President… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Starostova dcera
Along the right crack to the ledge, traverse left into the crack on it and along it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7+/8-
Velryba
Via the Old route without aid climbing to the beginning of the crack, to the left along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Starostova dcera
From the valley (NE) side by aid climbing and along a crack (ring) to the balcony. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Velryba
At the southern edge with significant building (stacking) and a wall (1st ring) to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Velryba
By bridging against Starostová's Daughter to the 1st ring, which is set in the wall of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Starostova dcera
By bridging against the Whale to the overhanging rib and along it to the 1st ring (the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Starostova dcera
Through the uphill chimney between Starostová's Daughter and Vnouče, higher up via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Starostova dcera
In the left part of the uphill (SW) face, via a crack to the balcony and a corner crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
9
Starostova dcera
SW Edge over two rings and to the left along the crack and without aid climbing to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Vnouče
From the valley (NE) side, via a chimney and crack to the balcony. Along the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Vnouče
From the SW via a wide crack to the pillar. Along the wall to the ring and (by aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Vnouče
Through the uphill chimney, higher up via a crack to the detached block and along it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Vnouče
From the SE fore-rock via small cracks to the balcony of the route "Grandpa's Little Luck… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Vnouče
From the valley side, through the chimney between Vnouče and Starostová's Daughter (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Radní posel
From NW via a chimney and crack to the platform. Step over, via a chimney and wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Radní posel
Rock Climbing Textile belay

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