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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Nuncius
In the left part of the valley wall by a crack, higher up left by the wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Padesátá první hvězdička
From the upper side by a chimney in the corner to the pillar. By stemming and a small… Rock Climbing
2+
Doskočiště
From the upper side by the right chimney and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Doskočiště
By the left upper chimney to the pillar. Traverse to the second pillar and up the wall to… Rock Climbing
2
Zapomnětlivec
From SW by a crack and chimney (pine) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Zejval
By a short chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Doskočiště
From SE by a gully and chimney to the pillar. Via the 'Downhill to Uphill' route to the… Rock Climbing
4
Veselá kráva
In the right part of the valley wall by a crack to the fore-summit and c. "Automatic… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Veselá kráva
From the valley side by a crack to the pillar. Up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Veselá kráva
From the upper side by a chimney and edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Smolíček pacholíček
Along the upper edge and left by a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Tlusťoch
From the passage between Bulík and Tlusťoch by a slanted crack to the end (ring). Lift to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Šmírácká vyhlídka
By the corner chimney to the balcony and along fine small ledges to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Smolíček pacholíček
Through the chimney in the valley (SW) wall to the pillar (ring), traverse and by a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Punková věžička
Via a chimney and higher up via the wall along the left edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Rejpal
Via the valley edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Rejpal
Via the upper wall from the left to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Malý vyzobanec
Via the wall along the east edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Narozeninová jehla
Via the upper edge (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Peršing
Via a chimney through the constriction to the ring. Left into the wall and via it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kvarteto
Via the crack separating the tower, start from Marjánka. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Malý vyzobanec
Via a crack from NW and the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Malý vyzobanec
Via the upper edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kvarteto
From S via a narrow chimney along the crack, later via a chimney to the pillar. Crossing… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kvarteto
Through a narrow passage under the valley wall. Via the right wide crack to the fore… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Kvarteto
By stemming between Kavartet and Zapadlá věž to the ring and then up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Kvarteto
Via a wide crack from the valley to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kvarteto
Via the crack separating the tower. Start from the passage from Zapadlá. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Kurfiřt
Via a small chimney to the valley pillar (1st ring), demanding climbing to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Hona
Via the NE edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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