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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Radní posel
From the tourist path, along the left part of the SW face, left to the 1st and 2nd rings.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Radní posel
NW chimney to the ring. In the ledge right, via a chimney and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Komíňák
Via the "Pivní transfúze" (Beer Transfusion) route to the abseil ring - via the Old Route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Radní posel
From the SW tourist path via a crack and chimney to a ledge and along it right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Komíňák
From the 4th abseil anchor of Starostová, left into the chimney and up it, at the top a… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6-
Komíňák
Via the Old Route to Starostová up to the platform and left via a crack to its 4th abseil… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Komíňák
From the balcony of the Town Hall Messenger, traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Starostová
From SW via a conical chimney to the first pillar to the 1st ring. Left up the wall (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Starostová
To the left of the start of the Ilja's Legacy route to Starostová, via a chimney to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Starostová
To the left of the Wedding as a Belt route via a chimney (ring) to the pillar. Right via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Starostová
Start via the Old Route, then inside to the right, via a chimney and continuously right… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Starostová
Via the “Ilja's Legacy” route to the first pillar to the abseil ring. Very delicately up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Starostová
To the left of the start of the route “Akademik as a pig”, initially via the pyrite crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Malá protěž
From the 1st ring right by wall to the shelf (ring). By aid climbing to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Starostová
Left of the start of the "Doplněk" route (to Whale) by crack through the hole to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Malá protěž
From the plateau side by opposition (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Starostová
Via the "Doplněk" route (to Whale) to the ring and below it left by ramp and wall (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
10
Pranýř
By dihedral and eastern edge over four rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Pranýř
From the north by chimney to the platform, left to the ring (aid from a sling/harness)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Pranýř
From the tourist path left of "Sarkova" route by crack (ring) directly into "Sarkova"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Pranýř
From the south freely to the block (ring). By shallow groove, higher up by rarely dry… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Pranýř
Rock Climbing
6-
Pranýř
From the ring of Sarka's route by opposition (2nd ring), overhang and edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Velký konšel
Via the "Leap" route to the 1st ring and a crack on the Great Councillor's wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Velký konšel
On the valley side (left of the chimney) by crack (1st ring) and notch right into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Velký konšel
Via the "Leap" route to the 1st ring and by bridging to the 2nd ring. Along the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Velký konšel
After the leap, right up the wall (ring), gully, and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Velký konšel
Via the uphill (SW) chimney to the 1st ring and via a crack or chimney to the Small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Dalibor
Left on the NW face, via a crack (ring) to the 2nd ring and left into the "begging crack"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Dalibor
From the uphill side, up a crack to the pre-summit and then a begging crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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