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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Gilotina - malá věž
From the internal space, up the wall and by opposition through the constriction into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Gilotina - malá věž
Follow the Old Route to the 'clocks', then traverse right on the ledge and follow a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Gilotina - malá věž
The ascent starts left of the 'Eastern Chimney' route. From the block, by building, a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Gilotina - malá věž
From the SE side, up the crack and chimney (1st ring) to the ledge of the Žabí route.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Gilotina - malá věž
From the summit of "Koš na hlavy" (Basket for Heads), by abseil and to the right along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Gilotina - malá věž
The ascent starts on the eastern side of the tower complex. Up the chimney to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Gilotina - malá věž
From the 2nd ring, go right via the corner crack to the sub-peak. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
5+
Gilotina - malá věž
From the internal space of the tower complex, through the chimney and window to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Revizor
Through cracks via 2 rings in the upper part. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Revizor
From the upper side, traverse right along the wall to the ledge. By aid climbing and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Morový sloup
Via the wall to the right of the western edge and along the crack to the 1st ring. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Morový sloup
In the middle of the NE wall, via a shallow crack and small pillar to the 1st ring. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Morový sloup
Left of the western edge of the tower, via an overhanging small pillar and crack (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Morový sloup
From the southern pre-rock, via the wall and a small pillar crack to the ring. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Srpnová
From the valley side by aid climbing, a small crack (2 rings) and the wall to the pillar.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Srpnová
Left in the NE wall, via a crack, chimney and crack to the pillar. Via the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Srpnová
In the left part of the upper wall, via a crack in the corner (ring) to the pre-summit.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Popocatépetl
Right of route "White Tie" through the chimney to the pillar, via a crack and chimney to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Popocatépetl
From the NE, by stemming, higher up via the left crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Popocatépetl
In the left part of the valley (SE) wall, via a corner crack to the 1st ring. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Popocatépetl
In the right part of the NE wall, via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Popocatépetl
From the SW chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Permoníček
Left of the western edge, via a crack to the ring. Via the small pillar to the balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Permoníček
Via the NE chimney to the block, then by stepping over and through the gully to the pre… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Rotvajlerka
From the chimney, via the northern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Sviňáček
Along the north edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Rotvajlerka
From the fore-summit on the NE side of the tower, by a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Sviňáček
From the uphill side, along the west edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Svině
From the SE, with significant building/aid to the fore-summit and via a crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Svině
Finished route to the small platform, right by building to the ring. Up the wall and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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