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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Svině
In the left part of the SW wall, via a crack (ring) to the gallery. Finished route to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Svině
In the left part of the NE wall, via a crack to the pillar to the 1st ring. Via a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Svině
In the middle of the NE wall, through the chimney (ring) (by building) and via a crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
5+
Svině
Left of the northern corner, via a crack to a small platform. To the left to the ring, … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Žebrácká hůl
From the gorge along cracks (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Zmoklá
NW chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
Přeskok
Zmoklá
From the uphill plateau (from NE) via a crack to the pillar. Jump right to the second… Rock Climbing
5+
Zmoklá
Up the wall along the W edge (ring) to the balcony. Up the chimney. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Šplhačka
From the uphill side from the NE, along the left edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Šplhačka
At the left valley (northern) corner via a small crack (1st ring) and a crack to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Zmoklá
SW overgrown wall to the left over a small platform to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
5
Zmoklá
SW crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Šplhačka
In the left part of the NE wall, 2 m traverse and up the wall to the right along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Šplhačka
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Tranzistorka
Up the upper wall over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Tranzistorka
Up the left NE crack to its end (ring) and to the right via the Spárky (Cracks) route to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Tranzistorka
From the NE via a crack to the hole and to the left via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Věž veš
Through the middle of the NE wall (ring) into a recess, along its right edge to a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Věž veš
To the right in the valley wall over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Malý roh
From the NE via a small pinnacle and up the wall to the 1st ring. Up the wall (2 rings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Malý roh
From the plateau side, to the left of the route "Blues for a Crazy Girl" up the wall (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Kozí hora
In the valley NE wall via a system of cracks (ring) under the overhang to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Malý roh
To the right of the northern corner via a small pinnacle, higher up along a small crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Kiki
On the plateau side over overgrown steps and small chimneys into the saddle. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4
Ziki
From the saddle (from Hafuša) via a corner crack to the pillar. Up the small wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Kiki
From the NE via a corner crack to the 1st ring and up the wall to the right to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Marfuša
Between Marfuša and Hafuša via a chimney, to the right up the wall to the 1st ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Marfuša
SE crack to the platform, build-up to the ring, build-up from the seat and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
Přeskok
Ziki
On the plateau side, traversing over overgrown steps and small chimneys into the saddle.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ziki
From the tourist path, through the corner into the saddle behind Marfuša. Through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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