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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Holátko
From the north edge directly, n.v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Holátko
Up the left upper edge, n.v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Exekutor
Rock Climbing
3
Grand hotel Pupp
Rock Climbing
3
Grand hotel Pupp
Rock Climbing
6
Echouš
From the west up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Echouš
From the S from the boulder by stepping over and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Demižon
From the left upper edge, left up the crack (ring) and fissure to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Echouš
From the E from the boulder up the face (artificial holds) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Bordelmamá
By bridging from the NE to the ledge, right to the ring and up the edge, n.v. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Bordelmamá
To the right of the route "Bez gumičky ne!" (No without a rubber band!) up the wide crack… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Bordelmamá
From the valley side, from the NW, up the corner crack to the pillar. Up the Falcon crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Boleslav
From the S up the chimney and face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Bordelmamá
To the right of the route "Komplet servis" (Complete service) by bridging and crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Bagr
Up the valley chimney, n.v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Boleslav
From the W pillar near Moses, step over to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Bordelmamá
From the SE up the small face, n.v. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
4
Bagr
From the W by stepping over and up the face along the edge, n.v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Bagr
Up the face over the block, n.v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Jójo
Via steps to the plateau fore-rock. Via the wall along the left edge to the gully and via… Rock Climbing
6-
Chlapecká
From the tourist path via the valley face and a crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Dinosaurus
Via the valley (SE) chimney, straddle/opposition and the wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Spodek
In the left part of the NE face via a crack to the pillar, to the right via the wall and… Rock Climbing
6
Svršek
From the NE via a crack (ring) to its end and to the right in a ledge traverse to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Dinosaurus
In the left part of the plateau face via a crack to the plateau. Via aid climbing and the… Rock Climbing
5+
Svršek
In the left part of the NE face via a crack to the pillar and via the wall along the edge… Rock Climbing
4+
Zajíc
From the SW via a chimney under an overhang and a crawl through a hole to the left to the… Rock Climbing
5
Holinka
Via the plateau (NE) crack to the pillar and to the left via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Špindlerovka
From the south via a chimney into an opposition/straddle position, aid climbing to a… Rock Climbing
6-
Hnojogénes
The start is to the left of the north corner of the tower. Via a crack into a hole and… Rock Climbing

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