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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Špinavá
NE crack on the pillar. Via the crack to the pre-summit and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zelený menhir
From the upper pillar, via a crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Strážce jezera
From the west edge, traverse left along the wall into the valley wall to the 1st ring. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Strážce jezera
Through cracks in the NE corner (ring) to the saddle. Up the wall over an overhang and by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Strážce jezera
From the 3rd ring of "C. Mustangs" left onto the edge and over one ring to the 5th ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Strážce jezera
Up the west face along the edge over 8 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Strážce jezera
Via the Found Arrow route to the 1st ring. Straight up the wall along the cracks (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Strážce jezera
In the right part of the valley wall, aid climb to the crack, up it over the overhang and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Strážce jezera
From the NW, up the chimney to the saddle and via the stemming chimney between Lake… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Strážce jezera
Via the Overlap route to the saddle. Traverse left along the ledge (1st ring) to the west… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Strážce jezera
Via the Lake Wall route to the 1st ring. Diagonally left up the gully and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
9+
Strážce jezera
Straight up the right valley edge over a ring and 5 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Strážce jezera
Left of Mordor, through the middle of the wide valley wall over small overhangs (5 rings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Strážce jezera
From the gorge on the upper (SE) side of the tower, up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Strážce jezera
NW edge over five rings to the summit. (right of Mordor). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Gorgony
Between Gorgons and Lake Guardian, up the corner crack below the overhang. Traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Strážce jezera
Rock Climbing
4
Gorgony
NE chimney over the terrace to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Gorgony
From the lowest point of the valley side, up the wall and corner crack to the terrace.… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4
Gorgony
Step across from the massif and up a short chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hradbička
At the right valley edge, up the crack to a small balcony and via 'sokolíky' (small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hradbička
In the right part of the valley wall, up the corner to a overgrown ledge. Up the chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kněžna
Right of the Old Route, up the crack to the pillar. By stepping across and up the corner… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kněžna
Up the upper wall along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kněžna
In the right part of the valley (NE) wall, up a short crack into the inner space. From… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kněžna
From the SW, up the crack over the overhang into the chimney and up it to the pillar.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kněžna
Under the SW corner of the tower, by stemming against a block, up the crack and wall left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Vévoda
From the chimney of the Old Route, traverse through to the valley side and right up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Vévoda
Via the valley route to the ring. Up the crack and 'sokolíky' (small ledges/flakes) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vévoda
From the upper (SE) side, via steps to the ring. Up the crack to the ledge, traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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