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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Vévoda
Via the valley route to the ring. Up the crack and 'sokolíky' (small ledges/flakes) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vévoda
From the upper (SE) side, via steps to the ring. Up the crack to the ledge, traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vévoda
Via the Past Times route to a small platform, up the wall along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Vévoda
From the west edge, traverse left along the wall under the overhang to the 1st ring. Left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Vévoda
From the 1st ring, left along the wall onto the edge and along it up the wall over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Vévoda
From the 1st ring, left beyond the edge into the recess to the crack of the Valley Route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Vévoda
SW chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Vévoda
From the upper side, via the "Old Route" almost to the window and right up a small … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Vévoda
Up the valley wall (5 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Vévoda
From the SW, up a small chimney to a small pillar and up the crack into the indentation.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vechtrovna
Up the valley wall over a ring to the ledge. Via the "Small Wall" route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Sova pálená
In the right part of the NW wall, up the crack and right along the edge to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Sova pálená
From the upper gorge, up a small crack and wall below the overhang. Traverse right along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vechtrovna
Up the upper wall to the pedestal and along the NW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Sova pálená
In the valley (NE) wall, up the indentation to the ring and up the overgrown wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Vekslák
Up the wall along the west edge over 2 rings and from the 3rd ring up the wall from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Vekslák
Up the upper chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Sova pálená
From the NW, left along the wall to the crack, up it to the balcony and right along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vekslák
Valley crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
7-/7
Macecha
Valley wall (between St. c. and Blue Monday) via 2 rings and hours to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Macecha
To the left of Western. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Macecha
From the gorge between Macocha and Vekslák (a carved groove at the base) along the S edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Osamělá
NE edge (2x hours) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Osamělá
From NW via the corner crack and left edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Osamělá
Via the Kout path about three meters, traverse the wall to the right and along the small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Macecha
From the path up the west chimney to the pillar. Along the wall and crack to the sub… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kokša
From the small pillar of the Transition Route, up the wall, via a small hawk (ring) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kokša
Near the left plateau edge, up the wall, small hawk, and crack to the small pillars.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kokša
From the west corner up the chimney to the pillar. Up the wall to the ledge, then left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Vřesová zahrádka
From the NE, across overgrown blocks diagonally right to the valley side and up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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