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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Slezská věž
Start on the eastern lower crag, traverse across the valley wall (hourglass) into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Palcát
To the left of the northern edge, up the wall along cracks (ring) over the ledge of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
10
Palcát
From the corner (hourglass/piton placement) right to the SW edge, along it over 2 rings… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Palcát
In the gorge between Palcát and Větrná spára (Windy Crack), up to the SE face onto a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Palcát
Up the SW chimney to a balcony. Left along the edge (1st ring), up the wall over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Palcát
From the ring, traverse left on the ledge over the northern edge to the eastern edge into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Palcát
From the fore-rock between Palcát and Dresden Tower, aid climb to the ring. On the wall,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Větrná
At the northern corner, up the chimney to the pillar and left along the crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Větrná
Right part of the NE face to the ring. Aid climbing from harness, up the wall and through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Větrná
Up the center of the NE face (left of Dočasná třináctka - Temporary Thirteenth) over 4… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Větrná
Up the center of the SW face (2 rings) to the 3rd ring, (aid climbing from harness) up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Větrná
On the ledge above the 3rd ring, traverse right to the hourglass (piton placement/fixed… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Větrná
Left part of the SW face to the 1st and 2nd rings. Aid climbing and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Větrná
From the gorge at the left (western) corner, up the crack to the pillar and left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Větrná
Left part of the SE face to the left edge and along it to the 1st ring. To the right, up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Větrná
To the left of Kokšova cesta (Kokša's Route), up the crack to a small platform, then a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Větrná
To the right of Skalácká pětka (Climber's Five), through a small corner and up the wall -… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Větrná
From the gorge at the right (western) corner, up the corner crack (ring) and through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Větrná
From the hole (thread/hourglass) via a gully/chimney and slightly right up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Větrná
To the right of Stará cesta (Old Route), directly up the wall (ring) to the Pavučinka… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Větrná
In the left part of the NE wall via a crack onto a small platform and through inner… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Větrná
To the left of Stará cesta (Old Route), up the wall to a small platform. To the left, a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Větrná
Via the old route to a small platform. Along the ledge traverse right behind the chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Větrná
From the terrace up the wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Větrná
Up the center of the valley wall via a thread/hourglass and 5 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Větrná
From the valley along the East edge (4 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Kočkolit
Rock Climbing
6
Kočkolit
Up the West face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Lotrando
Via the valley crack and wall (4 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Lotrando
From the path from Figura, traverse in the ledge of the Zamilovaná wall to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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