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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Koberce
Old route to the crawl hole and an overhanging crack (at the 1st ring, using aid from a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Koberce
Old route to the interior space. Above the crawl, through the crack into the recess and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Koberce
The start is on the plateau side, below the right edge of the slab. Via a crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Medusy
The start is at the pillar on the NE side. Via a chimney right to the ledge, traverse… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Medusy
The start is below the left part of the NW wall (behind the pillar). Via a chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Beduín
Along the northern edge of the pillar to the platform. To the right behind the edge via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Beduín
From NE via a crack to the pillar and via the Skluzavka (Slide) route to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Beduín
From the passage on the NW side of the tower via a chimney to the balcony. Via a crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Beduín
From the plateau side, traverse right along the ledge and up the wall to the platform. To… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Beduín
From SW from the fore-rock by building and a crack to the ring. By building from a seat… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Pampeliška
From Eliška's plateau, by opposition (ring) and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Eliška
From the valley side, by crack (2 rings) and chimney to the plateau. Via the Old Route to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7/7+
Eliška
From the left valley edge, up the wall to the right to the 1st ring. Diagonally left up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Eliška
In the right part of the NW wall, from the block via an overhang and crack to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8+/9-
Eliška
In the left part of the valley wall, by crack and wall (2 rings) to the 1st ring of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Eliška
To the left of the start of the East Route, by crack into the niche. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Eliška
From the balcony, up the wall to the 2nd ring. To the right along the edge and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Eliška
To the right of the start of the East Route, via falcon-like holds to the 1st ring. Aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Eliška
From NE, by crack diagonally left to the ledge, then traverse left into the niche and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Eliška
From NW, by chimney to the 1st ring, by crack to the small plateau, diagonally right up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Eliška
To the left of the start of the Old Route, by chimney, crack and wall to the left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Průchodová
In the chimney between Průchodová and Řepa (from NW), crack to the ring. To the right,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Lavice
The ascent is in a gully on the NW side of the tower. By opposition and a winding crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +1
6
Lavice
SE crack over the overhang (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
5+
Lavice
In the left part of the plateau wall, by building from an opposition and to the right by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Průchodová
From the NE via a corner crack and chimney over 2 rings (one added). Face to the 3rd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Skříň
From the block near the eastern edge to the right via the face (1st ring) into a crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Skříň
From SW from the foothills via an overhang and a system of cracks (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Skříň
From the 5th ring via a falconette (small, steep step/crack) and face (ring) to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Rybář
The ascent starts from the tourist path to the left of the south corner of the tower.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4

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