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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Faraon
From NE via the chimney into the gorge between Faraon and Zrzek. Via the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Faraon
Through the chimney and over the overhang via a crack directly into the crack of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Alkron
From Devil's Bridge by jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Rákosníček
By Western crack (ring) and from left by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Rákosníček
By NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Rákosníček
To the right of the northern edge by crack to the 1st ring. To the left by small pillar… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
9/9+
Zub
Right of the "Hubařská stezka" (Mushroom Picker's Path), up the wall along the cracks (6… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Zub
In the southern edge, via the crack to the 1st and 2nd rings. Building up from the seat… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Zub
In the middle of the SE wall, via the overhanging crack to the 1st ring, (building up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Korál
From the saddle between Korál and Ostrovní (from NW), via a crack into a hole and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Korál
Between Ostrovní and Korál, descend through the chimney to the pillar. To the right of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Korál
From the S edge of the SE wall, via a crack (ring), then a narrow chimney/groove (… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Korál
From the fore-rock on the SE side of the tower, descend two meters via the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Korál
From the SE via a shallow gully, left up the wall to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Korál
From the end of the gully, right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Korál
Via the right NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4
Korál
Via the left NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Korál
At the north edge, straddling Ostrovní and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Bukanýr
Through the chimney in the NW wall to the pillar. Traverse and wall along the rib to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Bukanýr
From Rohatá (on the NE side of the tower) by descending right between the pillar of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Bukanýr
By chimney of the old route about 8m to the ring. Right into the gully, through it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Padací most
From the valley side by crack and right by ledge to the 1st ring, by sokolíky (small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Cimbuří
In the chimney between Cimbuří and Bukanýr by crack to the small tower. By stepping over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Cimbuří
In the valley (NW) face by crack (ring) and chimney to a detached block. Then by the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Cimbuří
From NE by wider crack to the lower summit. Then by the route „Zbloudilá“ to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5
Cimbuří
From NE by chimney between Cimbuří and Bukanýr diagonally left to a detached block. By… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Babulík
Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Babulík
Left on the plateau side of the tower by small cracks and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Babulík
By chimney and along the edge (4 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Čertova tchyně
From SW, chimney to the pillar. With extensive building up to the ring. Building up from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1

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