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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Čertík
From SW, from the through chimney (between Devil and Hell), by stemming to the ring. Wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Čertík
To the right of the "Northwest Crack" route, an overhanging crack and rounded edge (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Čertík
In the middle of the east face (5m left of the start of the Devil's Hoof route) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Čertík
SE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
7-/7
Čertík
On the left, in the east face, a double crack leads to a overgrown balcony, and on the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Čertík
From the 2nd ring of the "Devil's Hoof" route, directly up the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Čertík
At the north corner of the tower, by a crack and small dihedral to the 1st ring. By a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Čertík
Up the wall and crack to the ring. Up the wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Lucius
Along the left part of the NW wall along the small crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Pašerák
From Ještěrčí Square, through the chimney to the SE summit. Via the Valley Chimney route… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pašerák
Through the chimney between Pašerák and Ještěrka (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Pašerák
In the valley (NE) wall, by a crack, a fissure (ring), and a wall to the pillar towards… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Pašerák
Left of the 'Údolní komín' (Valley Chimney) route via a crack in the corner to the pillar… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Pašerák
Via a crack to the pillar to the ring from the 'Devizák' route and thence to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Pašerák
Rock Climbing
6
Pašerák
Below the Ještěrka plateau via the NE chimney to the ring under the roof, (using aid) via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Ještěrka
Right of the 'Přes odštěp' route via a small crack, higher up via a crack to the balcony… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Ještěrka
Left of the north edge via a chimney between Ještěrka and the pillar, higher up via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Ještěrka
From the highest point of the Ještěrka plateau via a chimney between Ještěrka and Zefír… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Rohatá
To the SE balcony via a chimney from the opposite side. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Rohatá
From the terrain terrace on the SW side of the tower via a chimney to the SE balcony.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Rohatá
Via the north chimney to the fore-rock and along the east edge (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Rohatá
Via the left valley (NE) crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Útes
Right of the 'Standův komín' (Standa's Chimney) route via a crack to the pillar and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Útes
In the left part of the NE face via a chimney to the pillar and then via the face to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Útes
In the middle of the NE face from a block via a crack to a small balcony. Via a corner… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Robinson
Up the east corner crack to the 1st ring (aid climbing from a sling) and the overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Robinson
From the block on the valley (NW) side, via a small crack under the overhang to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Robinson
Via the "Pátka's Route" left via a crack and wall (6 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Pekelník
From SW from the upper ramp between Pekelník and Basilisk, by building/aid climbing and… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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