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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Sekáček
From the Kladivoun fore-rock, briefly descend the right chimney into the Sekáček route,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Sekáček
From the plateau (NW) side, via a chimney and crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Jumbo
From the plateau side, via steps and a narrow ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ostrov bláznů
From the NW edge, traverse in ledges right into a crack, by it to the S pre-summit, left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Vrak
In the right part of the NW wall, by a small chimney (sokolík) in the recess to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Vrak
On the plateau side of the tower, by building and wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ostrovní hora
From the SW by a crack with an overhanging entry to the large hour (clock) and to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall +1
6
Mořská panna
From the niche traverse through narrow chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Mořská panna
Right in the NW wall via a small chimney/groove (sokolík) and crack (ring) to the pre… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Mořská panna
From the SW over steps to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Mořská panna
Below the center of the NW wall via extensive aid climbing, small chimney/groove (sokolík… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Mořská panna
Via the left crack in the NW wall (ring) into the niche below the summit. Left via wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Albatros
Left of the Beach Route via a system of cracks (ring) and chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4
Atol Mururoa
Via corner crack in the left part of the S face of the massif, further via narrow chimney… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Rukavice
From the block on the right, on the plateau side of the tower, via waterfall/overflow and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Rukavice
From the ring via crack directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Rukavice
Via the right NE crack over the overhang (ring), a step right and another crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
6
Rukavice
Via chimney in the NE wall under the overhang and crack along the "twins" to the saddle.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8-/8
Rukavice
Via the Siamese Twins route to the saddle and traverse right along the wall to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4
Rukavice
From the plateau gorge, by the left crack in the SW wall, higher up by a chimney to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
6+/7-
Rukavice
From the inner space via chimney and crack in the NW wall to the 1st ring. Via wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Rumburak
From the start of the Descent (route), by a very narrow chimney to the pre-summit and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
Přeskok
Dešťová víla
From the massif, a traverse/step across to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Dešťová víla
On the plateau side, by stemming/bridging and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pirát
In the right part of the NW wall (from the Řeřichový potok) via a crack to the end and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Posed
Through cracks (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pirát
Left of the Route of Virgins, crack over overhang (ring) to the SW summit. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Pirát
Start from NE via crack (1st ring) to 2nd ring, wall over hours into a horizontal notch … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Pirát
From the upper side through the chimney to the clock and traverse right along the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Pirát
Upper crack over ring to the pre-summit. Overhang to the 2nd ring and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3

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