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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Pirát
From the upper side through the chimney to the clock and traverse right along the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Očistec
Crack to the left of the route Paradise in sight (ring). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Očistec
From N, small chimney, traverse the slab (ring) below the crack. Through the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Očistec
Upper small chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
3
Lázně Běloves
From the upper side by stepping over from the block and along the ledge n. v. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Lázně Běloves
In the valley NE wall, crack to the small balcony. Wall higher right (ring) to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Kriminálník
North edge to the summit (from the plateau). Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Kriminálník
Left of the Old Route, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Kriminálník
From the blocks on the NW side of the tower, via a narrow crack (1st ring) and a falcon… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
2
Kriminálník
In the corner on the NE wall of the tower, via a gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Káča
Middle NE crack (1st ring) into the chimney. From the opposition (by construction) up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Káča
Left NE crack and chimney to the 1st ring. Crack to the pillar, by construction and crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Káča
To the left of the Second Route, up the wall and crack into a deep gully to the clock.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Káča
To the right of c. "Window" through a crack (circle) and chimney to the pillar, "Bálova"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Káča
Along the right upper edge (start from left) over 2 rings to the ledge. Along the laid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Káča
From the SW through the chimney and window to the opposite side of the tower. Through… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Káča
Right NE crack, chimney and right into a deep gully to the clock. Through the gully and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Hříbek
From the fore-buttress on the SE side of the tower, via overhang and chimney to the block… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Hříbek
Left of the road, the Kursk Arc through a crack (circle), chimney and traverse in the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Hříbek
From the valley side, by corner crack under the arched overhang, in it by crack right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Káča
As original to the window and further through a crack (circle) to the pillar. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Hříbek
From the intermediate tower between Hříbek and Trosečník, up the west wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Chameleon
From the south, traverse left on the slanted wall and via a crack to the balcony. Over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Sklerotik
From the 'Okrajovka' (edge) descend to the plateau (SE) side of the tower. Climbing, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Placka
Via the SW chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Placka
From the plateau side via the right edge (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Placka
Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Placka
From the plateau side via the left edge (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Baloun
Route 'Four' into the small cave and straight over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Baloun
From the SW by a diagonal crack to the end and left by chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger

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