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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Starosta
From the ledge above the overhang, up the wall along the western edge (2 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Starosta
From the left edge of the uphill corridor, by bridging to the crack and via it to a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
8/8+
Starosta
At the stairs of the hiking path, via a finger crack over the 1st and 2nd rings to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Starosta
From the uphill side, via a crack and chimney to the pillar to the 1st ring. Overhang, …
6
Starosta
To the left of the start of the Old Route, up a chimney to the pillar and via the Old… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Starosta
From the 2nd ring, up the wall over the overhang, traverse right and up the wall (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Okrajová
On the valley wall, via a crack (2 rings) and along the edge (2 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Okrajová
Via a crack to the right of the route "Family Reasons" over 2 rings, diagonally right up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Starosta
To the left (corner) of Solstice to the blocks. Shallow crack to 1st ring, cracks (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Dalibor
From Krakonoš Park on the NE face, up a crack to the pre-summit and then up the wall to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Hladomorna
The ascent starts from Krakonošův park below the valley (NE) face. Up a crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Hladomorna
From the summit of Napoleon, descend via a chimney, overhang, and gully to a plateau. Up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Hladomorna
To the right of the start of "Limb Breaking" (Lámání údů), up a chimney and crack over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Hladomorna
From the SW between Hladomorna and Napoleon, up a chimney to the balcony. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Hladomorna
From the start of the "Limb Breaking" route, up the left crack to its end and a fissure… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Napoleon
Right of the inner space, up a corner crack to the fore-summit. Via the Old Route to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Napoleon
Via the Old Route to the fore-summit and traverse to the right part of the SW face. Up a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Napoleon
From the gorge (from the SE), a wide crack to the fore-summit. Traverse right and up a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Napoleon
At the northern edge (from Krakonošův park), up a crack to the ring. Up a small chimney,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Napoleon
From the gorge (from the SE), up the face and a crack to a small chimney, through it and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Napoleon
From the NE (from Krakonošův park), up a crack and chimney to the ring. Aided climb from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Napoleon
From the overgrown fore-summit on the plateau, descend 4m along a rib into the gorge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Napoleon
Ascend the southeast face via a small crack and fissure to the 1st ring, and then via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Abbé
In the northeast face (from Štěpánská koruna) via 4 rings to the summit. Note: The… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Napoleon
From the SW, ascend a corner to the overgrown fore-summits and descend into the inner… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Hrobař
Right of the southern edge, up the face to the 1st ring. Along the edge (2 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Hrobař
From the W, up a crack to the fore-summit, traverse (ring) and right along the face into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Abbé
From the SE, from the fore-summit, up a small chimney and a crack to the ring. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
3
Hrobař
Using a wide crack (opposing walls) on Štěpánská koruna and up the face (aided from the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Hrobař
From the gorge from Abbé's Route, up a crack to the fore-summit. Up the face to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2

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