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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Hrobař
Up a crack over two small ledges to the fore-summit and then via the Northwest Crack… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
5+
Štěpánská koruna
Aided climb from a wide crack from an older ring from Abbé's Route, 2 rings, traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Štěpánská koruna
The ascent starts from the plateau side from Hrobař. Traverse through a chimney below the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4
Štěpánská koruna
Via the right SW crack to the SW summit. Descend to the saddle and then via the Plateau… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
8/8+
Štěpánská koruna
Start to the right of the "Pimp's Dance" route. By the wall (4 rings) into the crack of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Štěpánská koruna
Start to the right of the "Lower var. Valley Route". By a crack to the 1st and 2nd rings.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Štěpánská koruna
From the edge of the Terrace by an overhanging corner and a crack to the platform. By a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Štěpánská koruna
From the Direct Variant of Little Red Riding Hood's Way left by a crack (1st ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7/7+
Štěpánská koruna
From the terrace on the valley side by the route "By the Corner" several meters up. Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Štěpánská koruna
To the left of Tublatanka by a sharp edge over a ring to the 2nd ring below the overhang.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Štěpánská koruna
From the chimney of the Old Route by stepping left, by a crack to the pillar (2nd rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Štěpánská koruna
From the left by a corner crack to the pillar (climbed from the pillar without aid). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Štěpánská koruna
From the Terrace to the left of the start of the Old Route by the wall to the narrow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Štěpánská koruna
From the Terrace by a chimney and in the upper part by a corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Borovicová
To the left of "Overhanging" by the wall to a small balcony and narrow chimneys, and by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Borovicová
In the SE wall by a narrow chimney-like crack to a small platform and by a crack to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
8/8+
Borovicová
Up the valley wall and a crack to the ledge and a small crack to 1st Q, by a small crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Borovicová
From the SW by a corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5+
Párátko
From W by crack (ring), by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Párátko
By wall from the east. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Párátko
By the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Kohout
Left in the SW wall to the pre-summit. Descent, step over and by edge (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Kohout
In the valley wall by a narrow crack, right by wall and crack to the 1st ring. By wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kohout
From the SW by chimney to the plateau between Kohout and Slepice. By climbing and wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
David
Through the uphill crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +3
5
David
From the low pillar on the NW side of the tower, through a double crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
5+
David
Through the corner crack to the pillar and through the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
5+
David
In the valley (NE) wall, through the chimney, crack and short chimney, finally along the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Poštolka
Along the southern edge and right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Poštolka
From the uphill side, traverse left to the ring. Short crack and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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