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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8+/9-
Pomněnka
From the block on the valley side through fissures to the 1st ring, up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4
Pomněnka
To the right of the Old Route through a narrow chimney to the platform. Chimneys to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Pomněnka
To the right of the eastern edge over the detached blocks and up the wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Pomněnka
From the valley side through the chimney or a crack to the pillar. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5+
Pomněnka
From the valley side to the right of Éterická, through a narrow chimney and a crack to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
5+
Vaněk
The ascent starts from the gorge between Vanek and Simon. To the left along a crack to a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Vaněk
From the NE along a crack to the 1st ring. To the right along the fissure and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Vaněk
In the right part of the SW wall (between Vanek and Simon) through a small corner over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Vaněk
From the uphill side through the chimney at the eastern edge to the ledge, along the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Vaněk
Traverse between Efendi and Vanek over 2 silver rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Vaněk
Along the wall from the ramp of the Old Route along the eastern edge (2 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
Přeskok
Vaněk
From the summit of Efendi (at the northern corner) descend the wall to the pillar and by… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
7-/7
Šimon
In the valley (SW) wall through the chimney in the corner to the platform and a corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Šimon
From the gorge between Šimon and Efendi, via a crack (ring) and a chimney to the pre… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
4
Šimon
From the NW, via the chimney and double crack to the pre-summit. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Šimon
In the left part of the NE wall, along a winding crack to the ring. Up a shallow gully to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Kurýr
Via the Window route, to the platform in the valley wall, then right to the left valley… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Kurýr
Via the upper (NE) crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
7+/8-
Kurýr
Along the right valley (southern) edge straight over 2 rings to the 3rd ring, one meter… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Kurýr
From the valley side, via a crack over an overhang and left to the platform. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6+/7-
Efendi
From the balcony, up the wall to the left (hourglass) and straight to the ring. Without… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6
Efendi
To the right of the Old Route, via a crack along the edge to the balcony. Straight up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5
Kurýr
At the base of the upper wall through a window to the platform on the valley side of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
8/8+
Efendi
Corner. Via the Cow Trail crack to the beginning of the chimney (protection), from there… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Efendi
From the corner below the right part of the valley wall, via a hawk's flight and a crack… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +3
6+/7-
Efendi
From the 1st ring of "Songs...", straight up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Efendi
Via the Cow Trail route to the platform. To the left up the wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Efendi
In the right part of the SE wall, via a crack (1st ring) to a balcony and a small chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7+/8-
Efendi
Via the route "Mood Stabilizer" to the widening and left up the wall to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8/8+
Efendi
Via the East Pillar (right of "Mood Stabilizer") over 3 rings, from the left via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2

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