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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Orion
In the right part of the NE face by crack to the ring and left by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Orion
From the block on the plateau (NW) side left by wall and along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Orion
In the valley face by crack to the ring. By wall and along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Orion
From the block on the plateau (NW) side traverse by wall right into the crack and through… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Venuše
From the path on the SW side of the rock formation, steep terrain below the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Venuše
NW face, higher up by crack near the edge into a crack and through it (ring) to the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Venuše
Left of route “Time is Fleeting” by corner crack (ring), further by crack to the fore… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Venuše
By the route “Magic to the Summit” to the ledge below the 3rd ring and entirely to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Venuše
By crack in the NW face to the 1st ring, beyond the edge traverse SW face to the right … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Venuše
By the route “Magic to the Summit” to the 3rd ring and right (= middle) crack to the fore… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Mars
Along the east edge to the crack, up that (1st ring) and along the edge to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Mars
Up the crack in the corner to the left of the SW crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Mars
From the SW from the inter-tower gap, left up the crack to the pillar. Up the crack to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
Přeskok
Mars
From the valley end of the inter-tower gap, up the chimney and crack in the SW face of… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +3
6
Mars
Up the right NE crack to the pre-summit. Then via the 'Severozápadní spára' (Northwest… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Mars
The start is on the NW side of the rock formation. Up the crack to the pillar, up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
6
Mars
From the NE, up the chimney, traverse right, and up the S-shaped crack to the pre-summit.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Borovička
From the SE, up the crack or the corner to its right to the balcony. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7/7+
Borovička
Up the center of the NE face past two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Borovička
To the right of the valley edge, up the crack (ring) to the fore-rock, then (presumably)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Borovička
Along the left uphill edge up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Borovička
From the boulder on the uphill side, traverse right to the 1st ring. Along the edge (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Borovička
From the fore-rock over the west edge to the right into the wall, higher up back onto the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Borovička
Directly up the 'salted' overhanging edge of the NE face to the 1st ring of the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Gamin
From the pedestal up the center of the NW face over an overhang into an alcove and by a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Rozcestník
In the middle of the NE face by a corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Rozcestník
Up the plateau face via an hourglass to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Rozcestník
To the left of the "SE Route" by the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Rozcestník
From the south by the face to the ring and to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Skrytá
From the left part of the gorge, traverse the face diagonally left over the north edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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