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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Žolík
From Kibic via the high-lying crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
7+/8-
Cukrovarský komín
From the tourist viewpoint 'Vyhlídka na Starostu', up the crack in the northern corner to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Cukrovarský komín
Left of the Cukrová spára (Sugar Crack) route, up the chimney and wider crack (2 rings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Cukrovarský komín
From the tourist viewpoint 'Vyhlídka na Starostu', up the crack over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Cukrovarský komín
Between Karbanik and Domov důchodců (Retirement Home), up the chimney to the pillar.…
7/7+
Kibic
From S, by crack to the pillar to the 1st ring. Up the wall to the right onto the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Kibic
From the gorge, up the corner crack to the pillar. Old route to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Kibic
From SW, by crack to the balcony and up the wall to the ring. By building up from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5+
Kibic
To the left of the northern edge, by crack to the pillar. Overhang and up the wall (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Kibic
From SE, up the chimney to the pillar and by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Kibic
From SE (from Hlavsova Tower) up the wall along the edge of the middle pillar (3 rings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Kominíček
Up the wall along the western edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kominíček
From the grassy ledge on the NW side of the tower, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kominíček
Via the offwidth/chimney between Kominíček and Koledníček all the way to the end and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Hlavsova
Up the NW face (2 rings) to the 3rd ring of the Cejdčko route and then via that to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7-/7
Hlavsova
The start is in the NE corner. Via a crack and right up the wall to the 1st ring. Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Hlavsova
From the block below the SE face, by stepping over and up the wall to the detached block.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Soupeřská
Via the crack of the Western Edge route and left up the wall to the 1st ring. Left up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Hlavsova
Along the left plateau edge past 2 rings to the 3rd ring of 'Cejdčka', then via that… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Hlavsova
From SE from the fore-rock, via a crack to a small platform. Via a crack to the detached… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Soupeřská
In the valley face, via a crack to its end and from the left up the wall (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5
Soupeřská
From the left plateau corner, via a double crack to a block and then a sloping crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Soupeřská
From the right plateau corner, via a crack to the pillar, then with aid and up the wall… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +3
7/7+
Kobylka
Up the wall along the crack in the NE face (ring) and via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Kobylka
Via a crack in the SE face (ring) to its end and then up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Kobylka
From the NW, via a chimney and crack over an overhang to the balcony. Via a crack to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Kobylka
From the saddle between Kobylka and Kolíček, up the wall to the 1st ring. Left up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Kolíček
In the valley (NE) face, via a crack to a ledge and then up the wall to the right, past… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Kolíček
Via the 'Bass Clef' route to the ledge and traverse right along it to the ring. Via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
6
Kolíček
In the middle of the NW wall via a crack to the pillar and via the 'Normálka' (Normal)… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2

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