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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Flaška
Along the plateau (eastern) edge and left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Flaška
From the plateau (eastern) edge, traverse the ledge to the right (1st ring) and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Madona
Via the eastern crack into the niche, left up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Madona
To the right of the NW crack, via the chimney to the pillar (ring). Step over and to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Madona
Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5+
Ikona
Via the right NW crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Ikona
Via the left SE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ikona
From the SW via the chimney into the southern wall and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ikona
Via the right SE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mylord
To the right of the western edge, via the crack to the pillar and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Mylord
Via the variant of 'Heavy Beginnings' to the pillar, traverse the wall to the right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Mylord
Along the western edge to the pillar. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Matýsek
To the left of the northern edge, up the wall and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Matýsek
Rock Climbing
3
Matýsek
Through the chimney between Vrátek and Matýsek to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Matýsek
Along the eastern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Drákulka
Rock Climbing
2
Lodička
From the E via a tunnel to the W, up 2m via an internal chimney and via a crawling tunnel… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2
Lodička
Via the eastern face and left via the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Lodička
Via the northern ridge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Lodička
Via the NE face to the small plateau and left via the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4
Polní kurát
From the W via a crack for 2m and left over the edge to the boulder. Via the face to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Polní kurát
Via the valley crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Pokladnice
From the NE via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Polní kurát
Through internal chimneys between the tower and the massif to the pre-rock and via a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Pokladnice
In the right part of the SW face (between Pokladnice and Malá jehla) via a wide crack and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pokladnice
From the NE, by crawling through the chimney to the plateau side and via the corner crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Pokladnice
Brief descent from the eastern pre-summit of Malá jehla (Small Needle) and jump to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Pokladnice
Via the left NE ridge to the 1st ring and up the face (2nd and 3rd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Pokladnice
From the SE via the chimney to the ring, by building left into the groove and via it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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