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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Skalní pevnost
In the right part of the NW wall via a crack to the 1st ring (aid climbing from a harness… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Skalní pevnost
To the left of the start of the Summer Route (between Skalní pevnost - Rock Fortress -… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Skalní pevnost
From the ridge of the rock formation via an overhang and up the center of the SE wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Skalní pevnost
To the left of the Vos Route; crack via chimney to the rock formation, overhang (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Skalní pevnost
From Královská třída (from the cave) via the chimney under the SE wall. Via the Summer… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Faust
From Královská třída via the chimney to the pillar and via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Skalní pevnost
From Královská třída via the chimney and along the edge to the ridge of the rock… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Faust
Rock Climbing
2
Štramberská trúba
From Jelčina via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Jelčina
To the right of the Memorial Route via a crack (using the ring of the Memorial Route for… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Štramberská trúba
South edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Jelčina
From the SE via the conical chimney to the ring. To the left via a small crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Prašná brána
Via the West ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Jelčina
From Královská třída (Royal Class/Street) via a chimney-like ascent at the southern edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Jelčina
From the SW (from Královská třída) via a crack and higher up a chimney to the fore-summit… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Prašná brána
Via the East ridge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Herecká
To the right on the SE wall of the pillar via a crack and to the right by wall (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Herecká
From the gallery under the SE wall via the gully (ring) and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Bludička
From the western corner of the tower, traverse right along the slab and via the chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Herecká
From Královská třída, via the chimney to the platform, via the chimney to the pre-summit… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Bludička
Via the chimney of the Traverse Route below the widening. Traverse left and step over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Herecká
Through the chimney between Herecká Tower and Bludička, traverse, right wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Bludička
Over the overhang to the ring, over the overhang via the knobs to the 2nd ring, up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Veverka
From the N from the fore-summit, along the left edge and left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Bludička
Via the chimney to the flake, traverse the ledge to the right (1st ring) up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Malý sokol
In the southern corner to the pillar, step over to the ring and build up to the ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Malý sokol
To the right on the NW side of the tower, by building up and via the crack to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Malý sokol
In the northern corner, via the crack to the ledge (here stands a slender Madonna) and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Veverka
From the northern fore-summit, by building up to the ledge, along it to the right and… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
6
Malý sokol
From the NE, via the corner crack over the overhang to its end and traverse the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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