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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Grylon
From the east via crack to the ledge below the summit and wall (rappel station) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Myslivec
Via the route 'Song of the lonely...' to the 2nd ring, wall (3rd ring) and wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Vlček
Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Myslivec
Step from the pillar into the wall (1st ring), along the small crack (2nd ring), wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Myslivec
From the upper gorge via chimney to the balcony and via crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Myslivec
In the valley (north) face by stepping from the pillar into the wall (ring), wall along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Myslivec
In the SE face via crack to the 1st ring, wall and small pillar (2nd ring), traverse wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Růžička
In the left part of the NE face via corner crack under the overhang. Wall to the right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Mikuláš
From the old route to Růžička straight up via opposition (2 rings) and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Růžička
From the upper gorge via double crack and chimney to the traverse. Traverse left and wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Růžička
In the valley face via crack into the hole (1st ring), traverse right onto the edge (2nd… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Zapomenutá
From the small pillar on the valley (SE) side of the tower via chimney into the recess… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Šípek
Rock Climbing
3
Šípek
In the right part of the upper (NE) face via chimney to the platform. Traverse along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Zapomenutá
At the north edge via chimney to the ring and wall to the pre-summit. Via 'July Route' to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Zapomenutá
From NW via chimney and opposition to the ring, aid climbing and wall to the pre-summit.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Zapomenutá
NE crack (ring) to the pre-summit. Via 'July Route' to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Zapomenutá
Left in the SW face via crack to the pillar of the Ant Route (ring). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Zapomenutá
From SW via a slanting chimney to the right onto a ledge to the ring. Aid climbing and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hradisko
To the left of route C. Just like that, a wide crack and chimney to the ring. Via crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
7+/8-
Zapomenutá
From NW along the edge via 2 rings into the 'Ant' route and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hradisko
In the middle of the SE face via crack, chimney, and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Hradisko
In the left part of the SW face (from Zapomenutá věž - Forgotten Tower) via fissure,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hradisko
Via Palisade to the extension, inside the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Hradisko
In the NE face via the only crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Hradisko
In the right part of the SW face (from Zapomenutá věž - Forgotten Tower) via crack and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hradisko
Via the right NE chimney to the block. Along the N edge to the fore-summit and up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Hradisko
NW chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Hradisko
In the right part of the valley face via the chimney (1st ring), traverse left on the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Hradisko
In the NE face via the chimney between the Palisade and Pracovní (Work) routes.… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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